LAUTLOS

> That's incredible, how is the rest of the car holding up, any other notable issues? While still under warranty (factory, then CPO) my car did eventually see all of the typical, major Gallardo problems: - exhaust CELs (pipes, electrovalves, sensors) $ - oil pump drive shaft (groves sheared off) $$$ - E-gear hose failure (harness replaced) $$$ - coolant pipe clamp (tighten, replaced) $ - engine cover poly delamination (replaced) $$$ After the warranty had run out, I then saw the following: - E-gear TCU failure (replaced) $$ -- rare/unusual - E-gear pipe leak (tighten) $ - E-gear pressure reservoir (replaced: old age) $ - rear diffusor re-coat (exhaust heat/soot damage) $$ - rear side poly delamination (replaced) $$ - minor cam cover oil leak (re-sealed) $ - coolant pipe clamp leak (tighten) $ -- happens every fall And now the clutch replacement, and that leaking TOB -- but those are "consumables" similar to tires or batteries. Speaking of which, I am still on my original battery... as well as wiper blades... but both are due soon. Also there were minor things like a lost wheel center cap and a few broken light bulbs (side markers, brake). In terms of $/mile, over my ~110k mi in ~7 years, it is: $0.26 gas $0.12 toys (lots of CF, telemetry system) $0.54 service $0.01 fluids $0.15 repairs $0.27 tires $0.11 cleaning $0.10 clear bra $0.03 tracking $0.23 insurance $0.06 registration = $1.88/mi opex + purchase/miles capex for the car's purchase, of course > I must admit I am a bit envious of you being able to pile on that many miles in a Lambo, I wish I had that opportunity. Find a spot 25 miles away. Visit it in the Lambo, every day.

2008 SL as of 2016-08-23 my car had done 107,894 miles on its original clutch at that point snapshots were reading between 5.4 and 5.7 mm "worn" and the TOB was leaking, leaving me with no 1st gear above 90 deg F, no 5th gear above 100 F, and occasional engine stalls on 1st-to-2nd -- a bit challenging to drive on my 1k mi road trips to the Sierra Nevada I made it to Concorso... and (with a lovely round of stalls when exiting the golf course onto the city street where a bunch of folks were filming cars as they left) back home... and to the shop for the big one, at last! the old clutch still had a tiny bit of life left: the groves where still there except for a few bald spots on the outer edge -- with road trip drives I could have made it for another 1-2k mi i.e. to 110k mi total... which is exactly what the regular E-gear snapshots were predicting for years went with a factory rev F clutch, a new TOB, and a new position sensor the replacement job went smooth, as expected, performed by/at LGLC I was able to watch the installation of the clutch assembly and the TOB in person, and take lots of good pics/vids in the process -- thumbs up! immediately went on another 1k mile road trip the next weekend... so there you have it -- ~108k mi on my original/1st rev F clutch onward! ...to 200k miles

The G's valve group (the metal block between the upper unpressurized reservoir and the lower pressurized reservoir, with a valve for each gear, and hoses going to the actuator on top of the gearbox) has a depressurizing "button" that you can "push" with e.g. a screw driver. And yes, you not only want to depressurize it, but also disconnect the battery, to prevent the pump from kicking in unexpectedly.

for those wanting to keep an eye on the rather big wildfire http://cdfdata.fire.ca.gov/incidents/incid...ncident_id=1348 (the Google map linked from there shows the area/outline)

> Who would not be tempted by a new Superleggera? [raises hand] 08 SL @ 105k miles... and counting...

> Very impressive! How has your maintenance path been? I have a spreadsheet that captures every cent I spend on the car. If people truly care, then I can try to find some time to sum things up a bit. > How many clutches have you done? Etc. I'm on my original clutch. Which shouldn't be surprising -- I use the clutch to get going, and to shift into the higher gears, to drive long distances. So I don't crawl around. At 97.5k miles this spring I was at 4.8 mm -- so the math says I will likely make it to 110k miles.

> BTW when I read your thread title I thought you might have transposed the order of "high" and "mile" - and was expecting a completely different topic having to do with flying..... > > I can't be the only one! [innocent grin]

> A ton of seat time in a stellar car!! yup, about 2500 hours of it

6 years and 11 months ago I bought a 2008 SL. 6 years and 10 months ago I then took delivery. On my first weekend I went on a 1,000 mi drive to Tahoe and into Nevada, which culminated with visits to Monitor Pass and Ebbetts Pass. I thought I'd drive maybe 7,500 miles a year and sell the car after about 12 to 18 months. I was wrong. So... what better way to spend a Friday the 13th than to re-trace my first road trip... and complete my 100,000th mile at the top of Monitor Pass. The big tree next to Kinney Reservoir right below Ebbetts Pass fell victim to a winter storm several years ago, but the somewhat smaller ones across the road are still there and doing well. The car is doing great for its age and all the use I have gotten out of it -- so far I cannot see myself parting with it anytime soon. It's still capable of 111 mpg. And it's still looking really good. So... here is to, well, who knows how many miles!

lots of Aventadors lots of Huracans lots of Urus SUVs soon, probably... unless the next recession ruins that one mmh while I'm happy for the factory... tell me... why should I desire one of them? (every time I try to think of "what should/would I get after the 2008 SL?", I am having a really hard time coming up with a satisfying answer... so help?)

Ah, the beauty of the VAG umbrella. Every time you see a 4 cylinder Audi you should show it some respect, for it helps Lamborghinis to meet "fleet- wide emission goals"...

> These are sold as a set of 4? I have always seen 2 as a set. > Do these go to the front trunk and then behind the seats? 2-piece set for rear (behind the seats) = 400862963A 2-piece set for front (the front trunk) = 400862963B l-stuff lists A and B for $4,777.96 and $5,920.21 ricambi lists A and B for $5,971.80 and $7,399.46 even with these being leather and a perfect fit for the Gallardo you may find the Huracan duffle bags a better deal -- you can find them on e.g. Ebay [disclaimer: I just bought a set of the latter, and I love them] GLWS

> and most importantly NO dual clutch in facelift. the car is not designed for it rest assured that if a DCT can be bolted to the V10 from the LP to make a Huracan, it can be bolted to the V12... ;-)

The rear side windows of the 2008 Gallardo Superleggera are made from polycarbonate rather than glass. A little bit of weight savings... plus a cool sound when you knock the window with your knuckle... but not so good when it does come to longevity: if the top protective layer ever starts to delaminate, then virtually nothing can stop it; the damage simply keeps on growing over time, regardless of whether you drive in the rain or just maintain a garage queen. Often the initial damage comes in the form of a tiny rock chip. While trying to clear bra the polycarbonate windows can help minimize such damage, it doesn't help with large debris, and it introduces the risk of damage to to top layer when the time for clear bra replacement comes. My left rear side window started to show this damage a few years ago. Eventually it grew into two large spots; the total size was about half a credit card. I pondered clear bra, then vinyl. I pondered trying to re-coat it, either with clear coat, or hard-to-come-by Lexan repair chemicals. And I pondered getting the windows replaced, of course. Fast forward to August this year, and a 3,000 mile road trip. Yup, right rear side window -- same thing: the disheartening sound of a rock chip impact... and, two days later, damage that had grown to the size of a finger nail. Alright... it was time to tackle this. No more procrastination. I got both rear side windows replaced while the car was at the shop for its 90k service anyway. I went with the standard glass windows, not polycarbonate. Why? A couple of reasons. First and foremost, I simply don't want to deal with this problem ever again. Second, it's much less tricky to successfully glue in glass, at least based on my experience a few years ago, when my engine cover window got replaced due to the same basic problem (de-lamination): back then it took a second round of glueing. And third, cost. While glass windows are hundreds of USD a piece, the poly versions are ~10x that -- you can get an idea by looking at the various price lists on-line. Since I was extra anxious about this repair job, I watched it in person. As a result I have a ton of pictures. A few of them are attached; if you find yourself in need of more (because you face this same repair), then drop me a line. Last but not least, so far I am very happy with the repair job. The work was contracted out from LGLC to George from San Jose -- he is knowledgeable, meticulous, detail-oriented, and professional... and he charges a reasonable price. So thumbs up from me -- CA rainy season, here I come! :-)

> I never had PZero Corsas on any of my Bulls You are missing out then. Big time. Having spent more than 6 years and 90k miles with my 08 SL on countless sets of Corsas, I'm gonna sum it up like this: I do hope Pirelli does manufacture them for a very long time to come. By contrast, after nearly a year of MPSS on my RX-8, I continue to be underwhelmed by them. They don't suck... but they don't impress either. Shrug. Different people, different experiences.

> Set up pic from yesterday under a beautiful Oregon sky. I drove up I-5 on Sat and the smoke from the wildfires covered the entire Willamette valley. It was particularly bad for the last stretch, i.e. ~McMinnville to ~Portland. A quick trip out to the coast and back in the evening -- same problem there. Wondering if it's worth going to McMinnville on Sunday.

> Can you elaborate? > CarFax does not show that Here you go.

> ZHWGU43T88LA06116 accident 2009-09-18

> I meant how many manual gen 1 SL produced / remaining worldwide 618 total were made in 2007, starting in ~05/2007, i.e. in just over 6 months Gallardo production seemingly remained steady across H2/2007 and H1/2008 SL production ended in ~02/2008 -- so maybe another ~150-200 from 2008? lets say ~800 total of the 172 total for the US market, 7 were manual -- 4% if that ratio holds for worldwide production -- which it probably does, judging from statements made by the factory, and observations you can make from a steady stream of used Gallardos coming up for sale -- then there ought to be just over 30 manual 2008 SLs ever made so does that make 2008 SLs -- let alone manual ones -- rare or special? well... value is in the eye of the beholder arguably money can convert a non-SL into a SL, and an E-gear into a manual after all, it's just a bunch of parts...

> I wonder how many were produced and are left worldwide? 2008 SL production ran from ~05/2007 to ~02/2008 for the US market, the claim is "10 white + 34 gray + 37 black + 45 yellow + 46 orange = 172 total" for the worldwide market, the claim is "introduced in 2007 and sold an impressive 618 units in its first year" [1] G production for H1/2007 was 1052 G production for H2/2007 was 899 G production for H1/2008 was 937 put the 618 number in contrast to "mostly H2/2007", and about 2 of 3 Gallardos during that time were SLs in short, not as rare as some people believe... but still... a great model to own I got one [1] Lamborghini Bellettino March 2010, page 5, 2nd paragraph -- e.g. http://cdnedge.vinsolutions.com/dealerimag...arch%202010.pdf

> You are right when you speak of power to the wheel, that is, without correcting the losses! > In Europe, it is rather the power to the engine, transmission losses calculated by the dynamometer as the powers announced by car manufacturers. > > The Supeleggera 530 is called "530" because it is the engine power it should have the engine (no wheels). But, unfortunately, the Superleggera 530 stock never much more than 500 hp / motor. Your dyno screen shot shows a factor of 85% in the upper right corner. Assuming only 15% drive train loss is a bit low for the Gallardo's AWD. Factoring in a more realistic loss, your ~500 estimate is actually closer to ~520. Which in turn isn't very far off from the 'promised' 530 rating.

> Here the stock dyno curve made March 18: With a 530 HP rating, and somewhere in the 15-20% loss range, a stock 2008 SL tends to dyno at about 440 WHP -- nowhere near 500.

Just like with your Lamborghini needs... get in touch with Roy Cats. http://fpiseattle.com They might not serve your specific area... but he may be able to help.

Best of all, a black 08 SL makes for an excellent daily driver. Says me. After 80k miles in mine.

Ah, the dreaded E-gear malfunction. :-/ Your battery is easy to verify or rule out. Get a battery tender that will not only charge it, but also give you an indication of its health. My daily driven 08 SL is still on its original battery... and it is doing just fine. If you can start your car several times in a row, then it is not a total disaster. And swapping a battery is easy. Now, the solid N suggests that pressure is building, while a blinking R suggests that pressure isn't reaching the required level. Priming for 15 seconds is a bit on the long side, but not unheard of. Mine consistently primes for 11 seconds, unless it was parked for a period of less than an hour or two. And yes, it's been doing 11 secs for nearly 6 years. (I have two habits. I either listen to it prime while I count, or I simultaneously open the car and the garage door while comparing the required runtimes.) Your starting point should be a quick glance down at the top of the gear box, where the actuator resides. Check for fluid leaks there. You could now remove the plastic cover in the engine bay, to take a look at the E-gear components in the right rear wheel well area. Do take a look at the fluid level in the upper non-pressurized reservoir. For me that means "remove bolt that holds it in place, slightly bend the reservoir towards the engine, to be able to open the lid". Also, you could lift the right rear, take off the wheel, remove a few screws to take out the plastic wheel house cover, and get a better look at the E-gear components from that angle. Look for fluid leaks, which would tend to be obvious. They might not be large enough to result in a dropped fluid level, let alone fluid on the ground, but it is possible to have a tiny leak, preventing pressure build-up. I had one of these a while ago: the lower, pressurized reservoir was covered in a film of fluid, with plenty of dirt sticking to it, but hardly a drop in fluid level, and hardly any fluid on the ground. In my case tightening one of the hose clamps fixed it. (Disclaimer: be careful if you operate on the system -- relieve it of pressure first [there is an actual point on the valve group you can push on with a screwdriver, to depressurize], and ensure that it won't start the pump on you [it can start even without the key in the ignition, as is evident from the short pump runs you might encounter just as you stop your engine and remove the key from the ignition -- so... disconnect the battery to be 100% sure].) Now, beyond the aforementioned steps you would probably need to connect to a diagnostic laptop, to read out the E-gear error codes -- I have had one of those as well: the car was driving just fine, but it still gave me the dreaded E-gear warning light. The error code then suggested a faulty relay... but it had "cured" itself already after that one drive. In short, just an electrical glitch. Last but not least, there are two more DIY steps that you can try -- the E-gear calibration reset, and a series of "dry" shifts. For the reset, pull both paddles for several seconds, until you see a warning and hear a beep; then engage 1st to clear the dash. This is doing a reset of what the system has learned from your driving style and it causes it to re-learn during the next drive(s). (If your style is shitty, this will lead to what feels like an improvement. If your style is good, then you won't feel any improvement.) For the "dry" shifts, turn the key but don't start the engine. Then go and pull the up-shift paddle in rapid succession, and see how many gears you can go up before the pump kicks in. Some people will get all the way to 6th; others only make it to 4th or even 3rd. This just gives you a rough idea of your specific pressure drop. (A snapshot is of course going to give you better detail, i.e. bar numbers.) Neither the reset nor the "dry" shifts might work in your case though, i.e. your current problem may prevent them. Alright, good luck with the diagnosis, and hopefully the fix won't be too painful. And hey, it's a car -- things break, you get them fixed, and then you enjoy driving it again!