Help needed

Out of curiousity, how much does a sending unit run?

Chipster, Ive said this before. We have the same my Diablo, and "typical" start up oil pressure is around 6 and decreases to 3-5 at idle and increases with higher rpms.

 

2.2 does not strike me as normal.

 

But, that being said, based on reviewing your video, it looks like your pressure is above the half way mark, no?

It does go up close to 6 at start up but will idle down to below 2. It will go back up with increasing RPMs. Going to have it checked out though to be safe

It does go up close to 6 at start up but will idle down to below 2. It will go back up with increasing RPMs. Going to have it checked out though to be safe

 

Curious what ever did you find out on this? Hope all is well. Sincerely Vic

Still being worked. I know some stuff but not enough worth sharing with the group so far except that it's not the sending unit

Still being worked. I know some stuff but not enough worth sharing with the group so far except that it's not the sending unit

 

Any updates from Richard/Fernando? I hope this doesn't turn expensive and spoil your ownership experience. Your car is such a beautiful car.

This blows, I just wrote a dissertation on this and it deleted it. FFFFFuuuuuuu////////kkkkk.

 

The CELS..... The code (3 flashes) is rich if I remember correctly. Early cars constantly will flash 2 or 3 to tell you they are rich or lean. Especially if the exhaust has been changed. Most early Diablo owners disconnected the CELS because of this chronic problem. It doesnt affect anything, they are just vying for your attention. You could have a bad 02 sensor, but that will usually show up in a CEL also.

 

Oil pressure.... 2.5 bar or so at idle is plenty. That is approx 35 lbs of pressure. Diablos run a very high volume pump, so that is a ton of oil getting pushed through the motor. Early cars had different pumps and timing covers. They do not act the same way as later cars. Get a manual gauge and install it where the sending unit is on the oil filter housing, warm up the engine and see what the pressure is. get the engine hot hot hot. If you have 30 lbs or over I would say you are fine. If you have 20 or below, I would say you have problems. For reference, motorcycle engines usually have 15 to 20 lbs at idle and 80 at redline. Early diesels would run 2 to 7 psi at idle. I remachined my timing cover (oil pump housing) and replaced the gears. I tightened up my tolerances and I now have fantastic oil pressure. I also replaced my rod and crank bearings. If the car has repeatedly been started with the clutch pushed in, it could have worn the thrust surfaces of the crank and thrust bearings, creating possible oil pressure issues.

 

Oil pressure gauge.... Early gauges only gave approximate readings. So heed what the mechanical gauge told you when you checked it at the back of the car. You can make the early gauges a tiny bit more accurate by removing the cluster and running an additional ground wire to the common ground on the gauges and then to a chassis ground. It is Italian, so gauges are meant to be taken with a grain of salt.

 

Evans auto is the place to send your car

 

As far as the car running bad, oil pressure will not affect that, unless it is trying to lock up. My car ran great and had awful pressure and lots of internal issues. I would say if the car is running bad it is another issue all together.

 

If you ever want to talk to me, PM me and I will give you my number.

 

PM me I have some pics and disclosure of the car before you bought it.

Just for your record a picture of the car in Oklahoma which I did not buy.

huh?

 

I must have missed a post. I PMed you Deons. No update fellas. Trying to work things out with the previous owner

PM me I have some pics and disclosure of the car before you bought it.

that does not sound good

huh?

 

Picture was too big did not load.

that does not sound good

No bad here. The car checked out well and all the right things were done to it (Other than oil lines) according to service records which makes me surprised that there is a problem with the car. I did not buy it because we could not agree on pricing.

Still researching into this. Seeking legal advice as well through a lawyer friend

chip,

did you receive these service records with the sale? Everything but the oil lines

Jason, I do have the service records. I'm still not sure what the issue would have been with the oil lines. Engine was removed back in 2005 and a broken rod was fixed and other things were fixed. A shop changed the oil and forgot to put oil back in and bang so the engine was fixed at the dealers cost at around $17k.

The condition of the engine will depend on how well they repaired it. Once you get metal debris going through your engine, you will have to replace piston rings, bearings, and maybe your oil pump. You might also have to cut the crank and install thicker bearings. A job like that should of cost more than $17,000. My engine rebuild was over $30,000.

Sorry it was in 2004 and it says broken stud not rod. I'm not sure what to say. Just reading what the receipt shows.

The car seems to run fine ONCE there is oil pressure. the problem is oil pressure comes on after a random amount of time. Sometimes a few seconds, sometimes a couple minutes. No power loss, no oil leaks, no burning oil, no colored exhaust smoke, etc.

Jason, I do have the service records. I'm still not sure what the issue would have been with the oil lines. Engine was removed back in 2005 and a broken rod was fixed and other things were fixed. A shop changed the oil and forgot to put oil back in and bang so the engine was fixed at the dealers cost at around $17k.

 

 

Dear Lamborghinisti,

 

 

Ohhhh......it's that car!

 

 

Ohhh boooy.

 

 

What can the "lawyer friend" really suggest? Were you really "hood-winked"? Did the seller try to dissuade you from a PPI?

 

Perhaps it's just cheaper to get it fixed than getting into a legal entanglement.

 

 

Shamile

 

Freeze....Miami Vice !

I'm just seeing what my options are. If it's like $10k to fix, then yeah, I would go ahead and do it and not worry about it. However, I dont think it would be fair to pay market value for a car and then drop another $30k if it needs massive overhaul for some reason right after buying. We will see what happens though.

This reminds me of my M3 I had. Dealer did not torque the oil drain bolt after an oil change. By the time I got home, no oil in the engine. Luckil, the car will not run without. The dealer promptly put oil back in, and gave me a warranty. I promptly sold the car. I never trusted the car after that. It was too hard to predict the long term ramifications of running with out oil.

 

 

I'm just seeing what my options are. If it's like $10k to fix, then yeah, I would go ahead and do it and not worry about it. However, I dont think it would be fair to pay market value for a car and then drop another $30k if it needs massive overhaul for some reason right after buying. We will see what happens though.

 

 

It is fair to pay market value and still may have to drop an extra $30K if the seller was not trying to hide anything. If he got a clean bill of health from a repair shop and thought the operation was normal...what was he hiding? Some people just don't know cars.

 

Like I said, if he didn't dissuade you from a PPI, it was up to you to have one performed. Did your bill of sale say "as is-no warranty"?

 

I can understand you're bummed....perhaps your anger is displaced to the seller but you're really angry with yourself.

 

 

I will agree with the above, $17K does not sound thorough. Call George Evans of Evans Automotive. Ask his for his advice and perhaps it may be worth sending the car to him for a real going over.

 

Chip, there are very few people who really know these cars inside and out. George is one of them. They have been immense help to me. Mike, one of Evans lead techs is on this forum and has been soooo much help. I would really give him a call. Tell him Shamile recommended you.

 

 

Shamile

 

 

I have talked with George already. That is most likely where the car will go. I agree that i share fault for not having a PPI done which is why I offered to split the repairs with the seller. Maybe it's just me seeing the good in people, but I believe you should stand behind something you sell. I will let you guys know when I have more updates. As always, I appreciate all the advice! Thanks

Chipster, sorry to hear about your situation.