Engine Out and Refresh!

The light was burning my skin too

Dear Diary,

Today I ordered some Redline MTL 75w90 trans oil and then some 75w90 redline gear oil. Also since I had only replaced the lower fuel filters when I did the fuel pumps earlier this year, I went ahead and bought some of the NAPA gold 3008 fuel filters to replace the filters under the tank. $30 for both. Thinking about what engine oil to go with. Any thoughts on the Motul 6100 series 15w50? Definitely doing synthetic but either 10w40 or 15w50 and now sure which. Leaning towards the 15w50 either the Motul or Redline. Thoughts?

the old oil question.

synthetic?

rule of thumb for older engines is non synthetic(thats on a non new engine)

I love Castrol gtx

the old oil question.

synthetic?

rule of thumb for older engines is non synthetic(thats on a non new engine)

I love Castrol gtx

 

I used to run the Valvoline 20w50 race oil that many suggest non synthetics are rough on cold starts. There was that oil specialist guy on here that has his own forum on oils that talked about the differences and I switched to synthetic a while back and have tried Royal Purple, Redline, and recently Mobil 1. The difference in noise at startup is night and day better. But you're right it is hard to get a consensus on oil. The Motul is reasonably priced for a synthetic. Decisions decisions.

 

EDIT: I see Valvoline now has a synthetic 20w50 race oil. I may try that one.

Great job Chipster! Everything is looking great! I haven't been on the forum in awhile and I just found your thread earlier today. I started at page 1, and have been going back to computer everytime I had a chance throughout the day to read all the posts. I finally got to the last page a few minutes ago. I think the blue color scheme on your engine looks good! Very unique! The blue wires will really look sharp! Great idea on re-finishing the rear grille with the plastidip too, the finish came out nice! Then your wheels........the black pearl lips really make them stand out!

 

This thread is of special interest to me since my car is also a '91. Thanks for starting it and for the detailed documentation with pictures! I always told myself that if I ever needed to do an engine out service, I would also be tackling it myself. From your diary here, I am seeing what I will be up against.

 

Keep up the great work! Looking forward to following more of your progress!

Great job Chipster! Everything is looking great! I haven't been on the forum in awhile and I just found your thread earlier today. I started at page 1, and have been going back to computer everytime I had a chance throughout the day to read all the posts. I finally got to the last page a few minutes ago. I think the blue color scheme on your engine looks good! Very unique! The blue wires will really look sharp! Great idea on re-finishing the rear grille with the plastidip too, the finish came out nice! Then your wheels........the black pearl lips really make them stand out!

 

This thread is of special interest to me since my car is also a '91. Thanks for starting it and for the detailed documentation with pictures! I always told myself that if I ever needed to do an engine out service, I would also be tackling it myself. From your diary here, I am seeing what I will be up against.

 

Keep up the great work! Looking forward to following more of your progress!

 

Thank you! I can safely say that since 2010, just above every single component in the engine area has been refreshed or replaced. Just took out the old fuel filters under the coolant tank but waiting for Napa to get the new ones in. I'll upload some pics of that once I do. It has definitely been a learning experience. For example, I had ZERO idea how a starter motor worked. Lot of googling and looking at please check with our franchised lamborghini dealer sponsors and lamboweb and asking questions. It is nice to know now that I don't really have to deal with any major expenses anymore since I'll feel comfortable doing it myself! Ordering the gaskets and murcielago door struts now so really all I have left is to take off the heads and replace the gaskets. Some little things like finding a mesh insert for the bumper openings too. I feel like I'm in the home stretch though!

I used to run the Valvoline 20w50 race oil that many suggest non synthetics are rough on cold starts. There was that oil specialist guy on here that has his own forum on oils that talked about the differences and I switched to synthetic a while back and have tried Royal Purple, Redline, and recently Mobil 1. The difference in noise at startup is night and day better. But you're right it is hard to get a consensus on oil. The Motul is reasonably priced for a synthetic. Decisions decisions.

 

EDIT: I see Valvoline now has a synthetic 20w50 race oil. I may try that one.

 

 

Its very hard to get a consensus on oil. The Valvoline race oil has a higher level of zinc in comparison to some of the others

out there. Zinc is essential for anti-wear especially at start up. Most oils do not have much as an abundance can mess with

catalytic converters. No cats on your hot rod

 

Check out this site. http://www.penngrade1.com/Default.aspx

 

I am now using this in my Viper as it has a fresh fully built engine. The engine builder swears by the stuff and I have to tell you,

I recently pulled a valve cover to adjust the valves, and this stuff does "cling" to engine parts as stated on the website.

 

Hope this is helpful

 

 

Its very hard to get a consensus on oil. The Valvoline race oil has a higher level of zinc in comparison to some of the others

out there. Zinc is essential for anti-wear especially at start up. Most oils do not have much as an abundance can mess with

catalytic converters. No cats on your hot rod

 

Check out this site. http://www.penngrade1.com/Default.aspx

 

I am now using this in my Viper as it has a fresh fully built engine. The engine builder swears by the stuff and I have to tell you,

I recently pulled a valve cover to adjust the valves, and this stuff does "cling" to engine parts as stated on the website.

 

Hope this is helpful

 

Thanks! I did see that stuff mentioned elsewhere in my searching about the valvoline but are you going to change that frequently? I thought I saw somewhere that the Brad Penn stuff should be changed every 500 miles or something like that. I would like to stick to only once a year oil changes since I doubt I'm even doing 3k miles a year.

I do see it is a semisynthetic and they have it is 10w40. I might try this stuff then.

 

 

I asked my engine builder about that.. Told me to go 3K without any issues at all. I read that this oil used to be full race oil. They

re-formulated it years ago and now call it "high performance" oil. I cannot imagine it would need to be changed any sooner than

any other synthetic or synthetic blend. It's some really good oil.

Thanks!! Just debating on 10w40 or 20w50 but I'm going to give one of them a try.

 

 

Very welcome !!

 

They also have a 15/40

 

I have more on order for some of my other rides

Very welcome !!

 

They also have a 15/40

 

I have more on order for some of my other rides

 

Lol dammit, now I don't know which to choose between the 3 weights. I've been running 10w40 full synthetic the last time around but have done 20w50 conventional in the past too so I think any of those are inside that range. The 10w40 is cheaper but at $70 for a 12 pack that is pretty good pricing. Maybe I'll do the 10w40 this time around and see how it does.

Lol dammit, now I don't know which to choose between the 3 weights. I've been running 10w40 full synthetic the last time around but have done 20w50 conventional in the past too so I think any of those are inside that range. The 10w40 is cheaper but at $70 for a 12 pack that is pretty good pricing. Maybe I'll do the 10w40 this time around and see how it does.

 

 

I think you will have excellent results with either grade. The 20/50 I have in the viper seems really heavy/thick. It's slimy ! haha

I think you will have excellent results with either grade. The 20/50 I have in the viper seems really heavy/thick. It's slimy ! haha

 

Ordered! And a new FRAM filter. I think the only thing I have left to buy is some brake fluid for the clutch.

Ordered! And a new FRAM filter. I think the only thing I have left to buy is some brake fluid for the clutch.

 

 

Sweet !

 

Here's some really good fluid for that. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AURZ0...=UTF8&psc=1

 

I just did a clutch fluid flush on new years day.

 

 

Thank you again. I wonder how much difference it makes between that and the run of the mill valvoline stuff. That's what I put in a year or two back when I replaced the clutch master cylinder.

Thank you again. I wonder how much difference it makes between that and the run of the mill valvoline stuff. That's what I put in a year or two back when I replaced the clutch master cylinder.

 

 

Very Welcome my friend! I'm not sure ...it is recommended to change the fluid out when it becomes dark in color. Heat is typically

what kills this stuff. I have had an issue in the Viper of the clutch not dis engaging properly at higher RPM's when I am trying to shift

it fast. The fluid was dark. I will report back in and let you know how this stuff performs. Car is still on the lift

This stuff , like the oil , was recommended to me. Am curious to see how it works out.

Very Welcome my friend! I'm not sure ...it is recommended to change the fluid out when it becomes dark in color. Heat is typically

what kills this stuff. I have had an issue in the Viper of the clutch not dis engaging properly at higher RPM's when I am trying to shift

it fast. The fluid was dark. I will report back in and let you know how this stuff performs. Car is still on the lift

This stuff , like the oil , was recommended to me. Am curious to see how it works out.

 

I probably won't be at that stage until mid Feb at the earliest so I'll have to check back with you.

Well I finally got the bellhousing/trans assembly off. I should have just listed to Chad from the start but I kept thinking there was something around the driveshaft area or end that needed to be removed first and I kept looking at Fivecars' thread which was helpful but apparently the early Diablos are a pull clutch aand the later ones are a push. Basically I just needed to remove the arm on the clutch slave assembly and then it pulled right off by hand. Not incredibly heavy either. Chad had already marked the spline of the rod where the arm meets up for putting it back together but I took a picture to remind myself. NOTE: Once you remove the lower bolt and nut, it is easiest to push the fork down and then once that is off, slide the upper arm laterally off the rod/spline.

 

Arm with the lower bolt and nut removed. The raised lettering is helpful to see with way the arm goes back on since it is not the same both ways.

 

The upper part of the arm (bolt is still on and it does not have a nut). You can see the black marking on the upper part of the spline/rod into the arm where the upper part of the pinch arm meets.

 

Bellhousing removed and trans fluid draining.

 

The seal there looks in good shape.

 

Clutch. It was checked in late 2010 and was fine and i've only put on about 11k miles and it is already a Kevlar clutch plate so i'm not worried about it but might as well pull it off. Plus i'm going to replace the rear main seal so I will need to pull all that off anyways, along with the flywheel.

 

 

 

Also, the filters arrived at NAPA so I went and picked those up and installed. It was about 25 degrees out so that was about all I felt like staying out there for. Maybe tomorrow will pull off the clutch and have a looksee.

 

Me pointing to where the nut is that needs to be removed and reattached to move the coolant tank out of the way to access the upper fuel filters (again, i've already replaced the fuel pumps and small filters this past year).

 

Bracket for the fuel filters after they've been removed and the coolant tank is pushed back.

 

Old Weber fuel filters

 

New Napa Gold 3008 filters

 

All assembled back together.

Good progress.

 

For 10W40 I like RotellaT6. But it sounds like PennGrade might be a good option.

 

Motul & ATE are great brands for brake/clutch fluid.

Good progress.

 

For 10W40 I like RotellaT6. But it sounds like PennGrade might be a good option.

 

Motul & ATE are great brands for brake/clutch fluid.

 

 

I will probably try the Motul for the clutch fluid just because I like saying "Motul". Sounds awesome lol. Everything is ordered now. May be all done before I leave for California but we will see.

Looking good Chipster, well done. I too have been using Redline in engine and gear box for several years and am happy with it, fwiw.

Looking good Chipster, well done. I too have been using Redline in engine and gear box for several years and am happy with it, fwiw.

 

Thanks!

Looking good Chipster, well done. I too have been using Redline in engine and gear box for several years and am happy with it, fwiw.

 

I've been using redline in the diff and gearbox since I did the service last year, no complaints other than I had to order online as nobody locally knew what it was lol