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    SoCal / Toronto

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  1. A question that has come up a few times is whether the exposed end of the torque tube could trap debris that would find its way to the end of the transmission. While incredibly unlikely a cap is supplied for the torque tube that reduces the chances of that to zero.
  2. If you watch the video you'll understand why supporting the gearbox via the transmission output can lead to driveline vibrations. The video will also outline the weight of every part removed. For reasons I cannot understand Reid Performance continues to claim a weight savings of 150lbs when it is physically impossible to achieve when you consider that every piece of the original 4wd system weighs 107lbs. Add back a bracket and stub axle deletes and you can't possibly LOSE more weight. Who's the blatant liar now? Customers can make the decision for themselves. Nick's kit costs almost 3 times what the Carbonio one does ($1500 vs $4300). Justifying it by claiming a more intricate design and better materials is disingenuous as the cost difference is so extreme that it is impossible not to assume a Lambo tax was built into the costing model. I was not interested in such games and the pricing reflects a cost plus model that is universal to our customers this way nobody pays extra just because they have more means.
  3. For years Murcielago owners have had limited choices for converting to 2wd. Most of the available kits supply a mount to support the transmission but this setup has a significant downside as it introduces driveline vibrations that would not otherwise be present. Check out this following video I put together that explains the problem and the new solution now available: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BgiRNLQJyec&lc=UgyTyEVTbEQcGpP028B4AaABAg The new kit is available here and is about 1/3 the cost of the other popular conversion kit: https://carbonio.com/products/lamborghini-murcielago-2wd-conversion-kit?rq=mk_lamborghini~yr_2005~md_murcielago~pv_all I'm not sure why the links are not coming up but a simple copy and paste will work well
  4. The correct way to remove the wheels without risking damage to the rotors is to use wheel hanger tools: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zsmBBf5W9WM The dealer uses similar tools and your wood solution is clever but very height specific.
  5. A Reid Performance 2WD kit sells for $4300 new. That said I know of an extremely well engineered new 2WD kit that is coming out soon that will retail for closer to $1500 so that will decimate the price of any used kits and will set a new price standard for those wanting to convert to 2WD.
  6. From reading your answers I'm getting the feeling that you are referring to the constant velocity (CV) joint as being the wheel bearing when in fact they are two totally different things. The images show the CV joint (NOT the wheel bearing) as being compromised and exposed. Politely I would say that if you are struggling with these distinctions then you may want to transport the car to qualified mechanic and have them perform the diagnostics and repair.
  7. Are you sure the wheel bearing is bad? All I see bad there is a broken CV joint boot that expelled all the CV grease making a mess. It is possible the wheel bearing is totally ok? You can confirm this by re-installing the wheel and checking for axial play. It is worth doing this because you may do a lot of work and spend money that is not needed.
  8. The items that age tires are UV light and heat cycles. So long as a tire has not had its FIRST heat cycle the aging process is very slow and tires can be stored for many years. The real acceleration of aging happens as tires heat and cool due to use (way more temperature variation than what is possible in storage). It is after the first heat cycle that the effective life of a tire is no more than 10 years. Regarding storage placing tires in black plastic bags to keep the UV light out and storing them in a dry place that never goes below freezing is fine.
  9. Contact North Hollywood Speedometer. They fix all kinds of clusters and have been around a long time.
  10. Excellent post and thank you for sharing. I think the concept of trimming the headlight surround to aid in future servicing is both sound and has no bearing on the operation and fitment of the light assembly. For sure if you use your car cleaning the lights is almost a service item so preparing the lights for future disassembly makes a lot of sense.
  11. Nuvolari


    Last thing I want to do is be a buzzkill. At the same time there are a ton of really great options with a FIAT 500 and LP160 is perhaps a little too vague even for the most ardent Lambo fan. From what I hear you will need to know your plate in owning a modern FIAT 500....every time you call AAA
  12. Nuvolari


    The LP160 is not really correct no matter how you look at it. The LP refers to the Longitudinal Posterior engine layout on a Lambo. A 500 Abarth is transverse so all you are really quoting is the horsepower with no real tie to Lamborghini. I have a Murcielago and a 1964 Fiat 500. Both have LP engine configurations with slightly different power outputs
  13. Excellent advice. Well reasoned and unbiased. I totally agree.
  14. Mods feel free to lock or delete this thread. I decided just to remove the tint on my lights so the offer to trade is no longer available.
  15. Thank you for the feedback and perspective. In my case I know the lights were tinted very early in the life of the car (I have the records of the job) so the chances that the lights were tinted to hide anything is pretty much zero. The last thing I am interested in is screwing someone over a set of car taillights so I am presenting the trade as honestly as I can and would expect someone willing to trade to do the same. My intentions of this thread are to offer a fellow Murci owner the chance to modify their car at minimal expense while saving me the work of stripping the tint. I actually have quite a bit of experience in this field having restored a number of cars to a very high standard (multiple 100 point scores in the Ferrari world). As it is I'll wait a little to see if anyone comes forward with a reasonable trade and if not I'll just put in the elbow grease and strip the lights. For now the offer stands
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