RWD Conversion versus AWD

I need feedback from someone who has actually done it to the car...getting two different feedback on the drive shafts to the wheels.

 

Hey Charlie! Are you thinking about doing this to your car? Have you gotten it back yet?

Yes, going to have it done...get back from Hawaii on the 11th then goes to get this done...once I get confirmation on what they need to do.

Yes, going to have it done...get back from Hawaii on the 11th then goes to get this done...once I get confirmation on what they need to do.

Hey Charlie...I have a suggestion. Why dont you find a road which you can do a few 60-130 runs with a vbox and do a before and after

Hey Charlie...I have a suggestion. Why dont you find a road which you can do a few 60-130 runs with a vbox and do a before and after

 

If you would like, I might be able to do video/photo for you if you do the runs.

 

Yes, going to have it done...get back from Hawaii on the 11th then goes to get this done...once I get confirmation on what they need to do.

 

This doesn't seem likely, but would the conversion be completed before Barrett, Russo, etc?

 

If you want anything else - photos, whatever, let me know.

Allan, can do! I will be back in town next week and we are hoping to do the conversion at the end of Jan. I think this is an excellent idea! That way we know for sure if it is truly worth doing the conversion!

Can someone tell me how to find the link that gives details on doing this conversion?

 

My understanding is that we take out the drive shaft, front dif, drive to the wheels, lower the front of the car via shocks, and finally alignment? Do we have to do anything to cover the area where the drive attaches to the wheels, etc?

 

Charlie, it would seem to me that cover plates (2) need be fabricated to seal the area where the half shafts connect to the front Diff and also on the wheel side of the axle shafts. i looked at my 6.0 in contemplation of doing it, and coverplates seemed logical. it would also seem logical to seal off the drive shaft receptor IF once removing the shaft exposes internals to elements.

360Challenge, the front dif comes out thus saving weight. I have been told that the drive shaft from the trans does not require a cover but have heard conflicting information on the shafts to the wheels possibly requiring taking apart the end of the shaft and using the plate or that does not need anything either.

 

So, we take out the shaft from the trans, take out the front diff and drive shafts to the front wheels, lower the car to SV height specs in the front and get an alignment and we are good or? So far this is exactly what everyone is saying in previous posts but my Lambo tech is questioning if we need to drive shaft plate for the hub area. I guess we will soon find out in a couple weeks.

I did this conversion almost two years ago and have had all the same results experienced here - a lighter front end (though easily manageable with minor adjustments), a much faster car (raced a friends's Plastic mess-06 pre and post conversion), stable at high speeds, and definitely more fun to drive since you can let the rear hang loose from time to time. The only drawback is the occasional foray into the canyons where the pucker factor is a bit higher! It's a simple conversion that is not irreversible and really changes the character of the car! Wouldn't go back to AWD unless I was selling the car!

Tipo815, please confirm what we need to do please:

 

So, we take out the shaft from the trans, take out the front diff and drive shafts to the front wheels, lower the car to SV height specs in the front and get an alignment and we are good or? So far this is exactly what everyone is saying in previous posts but my Lambo tech is questioning if we need to drive shaft plate for the hub area.

Tipo815, please confirm what we need to do please:

 

So, we take out the shaft from the trans, take out the front diff and drive shafts to the front wheels, lower the car to SV height specs in the front and get an alignment and we are good or? So far this is exactly what everyone is saying in previous posts but my Lambo tech is questioning if we need to drive shaft plate for the hub area.

That's a good question that I don't have an answer to. I dropped the car off at Lamborghini of Orange County and then picked it up the next day when it was done. I have no idea what they did. All I know is that they gave me a bunch of parts in a large box and said not to lose anything in case I ever wanted to re-install it. You can always call their head tech Jeff at 714-496-1441. I'm sure he'd be happy to help you. Best of luck!

I didn't do the conversion, but I had all this stuff out on my work bench.

You could take all these parts out in about 2 hours. You just need a transmission stand or someone to help you hold and lower the diff.

Take the diff out before removing the bolts from the trans and drive shaft tube. And when splitting the diff from the drive shaft tube, don't hammer a screw driver between them... I hate that.

 

The front drive shaft just pulls out of the splines on the trans. Nothing will leak, but a cover or hose and some grease on the splines would keep them from getting crappy. The only hard part I could remember was having to use a long extension with a swivel to get to the bolts on top of the drive shaft tube. And having to have the drive shafts in just the right place in order to lower the diff out.

I don't remember if I did it all from under the car, or I accessed the front diff mount bolts from behind the panel under the front bonnet. I did it alone, so I think I did it all from underneath.

 

Since I didn't do the conversion, I did not take the front drive shafts out. And unlike on the front diff, they are not bolted to the axle stubbs. I think you will have to take the front axles out to dissemble the CV Joint. I'm pretty sure you will just have to remove the big boot clamp, bend the CV joint all the way to the side and remove the balls. It will then fall apart. I remember this from my old sand rail / dune buggy days. You will then reinstall the axle stubs. If you want a real clean reinstallation, you would get new axles and machine off all the unused CV joint stuff.

 

As for ride height, just measure exactly where it is now, then turn the shock spring adjustment nuts until it matches. You will be surprised as to how much one turn on this nut lowers the car.

How do I get these damn half shafts out?

 

-currently under car.

 

Nick

I would need the STIG! I'm no pro.

 

Book me some Singapore Air tickets and I'm there!

Haven't seen SAM LAMBO post in a while. Has anyone stayed in touch with him?

i believe i saw him post recently on the aventador

kk. but does anybody know how to pull a half shaft?

 

Nick

kk. but does anybody know how to pull a half shaft?

 

Nick

Nick remove the big nut at the end of the axle.This picture shows the nut already off. Then remove the six bolts that hold it to the front diff. The bearing is held into the spindle place with a big lock ring. This is how I removed the axle on my Diablo to but on a new boot. I think a Murc. will be the same.

Perfect, thank you.

 

So now I have the front half shafts out. The rotors have play front to back on the hub. Didn't everybody just pull their front half shafts?

 

Nick

Did anybody replace where the half-shafts (spline) go into the hub with anything? My hubs are loose after the conversion, I cannot drive the car.

 

Nick

Nick you are going to have to take the have shaft apart and put the end or stub back into the bearing and tighten it to the right spec. I was thinking about that today and was going to post it for you but you have already found that out.

Just picked up some SV plugs.

 

Nick

where did you get the SV plugs?

PM sent.

 

Nick

This thread has a lot of mis-conceptions about removing the AWD. I personally removed my car's and while this thread has some good general pointers, it's not enough to tackle the job. If anyone if looking to have this done to their car, or doing it themselves and has questions. Feel free to shoot me a PM or email. If you're close to me, I would be glad to help and save you some time/headaches if messaging isn't enough to make you comfortable tackling the job.

 

While this mostly is just removing parts, it's a 6/10 in difficulty. Parts have to be pulled in the right order; air tools are needed; and care has to be used because many of the bolts are small hex heads in tight areas.

 

 

i just had the RWD conversion done to my car. the tech said it only took him about 2-3 hours to remove the 2 halfshaft, differential and prop shaft. he actually gave it to back to me as an assembly and mentioned that he removed it that way so that it was quicker.

 

This post added HOURS to my removal. You cannot remove the front halfshafts & diff as one piece. The halfshafts have to be disconnected from the hub, then disconnected from the diff, then the diff has to drop, then the halfshafts have to come out.

 

If you are MOVING and know exactly what you're doing, it can be done in 2-3 hours. If it's your fist time, expect to spend at least 10 hours. The halfshaft bolts are a PITA to remove; there are tight spaces; and like all first time jobs, a learning curve.

 

 

Can someone tell me how to find the link that gives details on doing this conversion?

 

My understanding is that we take out the drive shaft, front dif, drive to the wheels, lower the front of the car via shocks, and finally alignment? Do we have to do anything to cover the area where the drive attaches to the wheels, etc?

Yes, Diablo SV stubs are needed to go in the front hubs.

 

 

. . . it would also seem logical to seal off the drive shaft receptor IF once removing the shaft exposes internals to elements.

Note above.

 

 

I didn't do the conversion, but I had all this stuff out on my work bench.

You could take all these parts out in about 2 hours. You just need a transmission stand or someone to help you hold and lower the diff.

Take the diff out before removing the bolts from the trans and drive shaft tube. And when splitting the diff from the drive shaft tube, don't hammer a screw driver between them... I hate that.

 

The front drive shaft just pulls out of the splines on the trans. Nothing will leak, but a cover or hose and some grease on the splines would keep them from getting crappy. The only hard part I could remember was having to use a long extension with a swivel to get to the bolts on top of the drive shaft tube. And having to have the drive shafts in just the right place in order to lower the diff out.

I don't remember if I did it all from under the car, or I accessed the front diff mount bolts from behind the panel under the front bonnet. I did it alone, so I think I did it all from underneath.

 

Since I didn't do the conversion, I did not take the front drive shafts out. And unlike on the front diff, they are not bolted to the axle stubbs. I think you will have to take the front axles out to dissemble the CV Joint. I'm pretty sure you will just have to remove the big boot clamp, bend the CV joint all the way to the side and remove the balls. It will then fall apart. I remember this from my old sand rail / dune buggy days. You will then reinstall the axle stubs. If you want a real clean reinstallation, you would get new axles and machine off all the unused CV joint stuff.

 

As for ride height, just measure exactly where it is now, then turn the shock spring adjustment nuts until it matches. You will be surprised as to how much one turn on this nut lowers the car.

This is wrong.

 

 

Again, 2 hours is very optimistic, if you've done the conversion before.

The diff should be the LAST thing dropped once all the bolts are off/loose (halfshafts & driveshaft).

The halfshafts have to be dis-assembled near the diff hub.

The diff is light enough when the mounts are removed, that the half shafts hold it in place and you can wiggle it out. I laid on my back and dropped it onto my chest.

Diff mounts are accessed from under the car.

 

 

Nick

Edited May 2, 2011 by whiteout