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Resurrecting Jalpa #359


Kerplop
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The problem is more the voltage to the motors than the motors themselves. The original system has way too much resistance. Check out my post on upgrade for Jalpa window motors on the other site. I designed Hav ea relay circuit that corrects the problem. Have you run it on the dyno yet?? I am dying to see the results. Also on mine I switched to a Garrett gen 2 3582 reverse rotation turbo for more space for the intercooler. I need to start a post on my build but want to see yours done first> Lee

 

Yeah I found that a while back, I'll definitely be improving the voltage to them to help things out.

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Here's a fun thought to ponder.

 

HOW THE HELL DID THEY FISH THE BATTERY NEGATIVE THROUGH THAT TINY LITTLE TUNNEL????

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  • 3 weeks later...

Found a solution to get the fuel adapters mated up to the tank using AN fittings and an adapter for the 18x1.5 tank inlet. I think this is going to work out just fine. I have a bunch of stuff on the way. Quite excited!

 

Taking ALL of next week off to try and get this beast running.

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Hey Kerplop , you have left us hanging waiting on the dyno. Kinda like a supermodel going into your bathroom to change into something more comfortable and never coming back out............................................. Show us the goods we are dying . Lee (At least I am )

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Hey Kerplop , you have left us hanging waiting on the dyno. Kinda like a supermodel going into your bathroom to change into something more comfortable and never coming back out............................................. Show us the goods we are dying . Lee (At least I am )

 

We had a chance to get the engine running on the dyno, never got a pull in due to a bunch of issues. Hopefully this coming week we'll have a first actual start.

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Want to give a shout out to those who have recently started following the build. Oddly enough met some car peeps on some games I play (SC2) and wanted to say thanks to all for the support. Thanks to stitch and all the others who have been rad as hell. This week is going to ROCK! I'm enjoying a glass of scotch and cigar. Tomorrow is a trip to the local cigar lounge, then it's time to get FIRST START. LET'S DO THIS.

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Want to give a shout out to those who have recently started following the build. Oddly enough met some car peeps on some games I play (SC2) and wanted to say thanks to all for the support. Thanks to stitch and all the others who have been rad as hell. This week is going to ROCK! I'm enjoying a glass of scotch and cigar. Tomorrow is a trip to the local cigar lounge, then it's time to get FIRST START. LET'S DO THIS.

 

Excitiing times!

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Alright.

 

- Exhaust finished except muffler. Sadly, I think some of the exhaust studs are trying to strip. I'm going to have to helicoil 2 of them, which sucks ass. I can do it with the engine in. For now, the torque is fine but they /started/ feeling mushy. The rest are fine.

- Oil system is finished.

- Old fuel system is out at this point. Working on plumbing a solution for the return to the tank nearest the fuel regulator to avoid heat from the exhaust headers since that's the biggest issue on most of them.

- Water system partially done

- Breather system finished and wrapped up.

 

Tomorrow's agenda:

 

- Finish cleaning out tank, install new AN connectors, install fuel pump, run braided line, get fuel system finished. Should be quick and easy.

- Get some adapters for routing so that I can cleanly route all of the hoses and connectors so stuff isn't just laying in there.

- Start wiring up the harness from the megasquirt to the engine bay from under the seat area, custom cut, heat shrink, and solder everything.

 

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Sorry for all the oil and shit, I got dirty as hell and the car got dirty. It'll clean.

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Can wiggle tank around, all bolts out. Absolutely cannot move it back to get it out. Wtf.

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Got it figured out. 2 bolts in the interior, 1 for each tank that swivel.

 

Tested AN fittings, good to go. Tank is full of crap. Bought 2 liner kits, going to tack it early tomorrow. I'm hot and tired.

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Side note: Got a bunch of stuff to make the wiring nice and clean in the engine bay. Should arrive wednesday. Will get the tanks sorted tomorrow. Will fix the vapor hose situation. I am having a hard time debating whether I want the return line to go to the fill tank, or secondary tank.

 

When I looked inside, it appears the secondary tank (which oddly is what feeds the pump), has a feed tube that sticks up around 3 inches, straight up. I find this odd. I'm going to guess it was so that you can never truly have 1 completely empty tank sitting empty. I don't really understand the logic behind it. It also means you have to fill up to a certain amount for the gas to move over to the other tank as well.

 

If I put the return on the fill tank, I'll have the easiest route to it, and no problem running it from the fuel regulator. This also will keep all the fuel lines away from the header. If on the other hand I route it across the firewall and into the secondary tank, I can feed it into that tank and won't have any potential scenarios of running too low on fuel too soon (I could go further on "E"). But this presents the issue of heat. There's no possible route that isn't going to take it at least near some proximity of heat from the headers.

 

So here's the pros and cons TL;DR

 

Tank A pros: No heat issues. Shortest route. Closest to regulator. Less fire risk. Tank A cons: Since it is fill tank and bung goes 3 inches up to tank B, I could run into a scenario where I'm running too low on fuel and run tank B dry, even with gas in Tank A.

 

Tank B pros: Won't run risk of running dry too soon. Tank B cons: If a line goes it's running along the firewall, fire hazard big time. Heat. I could potentially shield it, but still, there is ALWAYS that risk.

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Going with plan A. Less fire hazard.

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Alright, so holy bananas batman. This tank was bad, but I got it. So here's how it went down. Everything where there was gas, was basically fine. But due to condensation and whatever else was in there, the top rusted, flaked, and basically turned to dust that fell into the tank in the worst of ways, building up into a bunch of shit.

 

Exhibit A: Dayum.

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After throwing nuts and bolts into this thing, and shaking it and beating it like a pinata for a long time, a ton of crap came out.

 

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I then flushed the tank with water and did the best i could to pinata the hell out of it again with bolts. I did this until no more flakes, and nothing more came out of the tanks.

 

This was the flush step after using the tank cleaner.

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Finally, after letting it dry overnight, and then using a blow dryer to ensure it was perfectly dry, I let the tank cool for 30 minutes, and then i used the next step (prep) in the kit, waited 15 minutes for all of it to evaporate, and then proceeded to coat the tank.

 

I spent about 10 minutes slowly moving it back and forth, back and forth, back and forth. Slowly. Basically as this stuff touches air, it starts to cure a bit quickly and then thickens. I used some of step 2 (prep) which has some acetone in it, cleaned off a random piece of metal in the garage, smeared some of the liner and let it dry in the sun. It basically turns into a semi-transparent, blue goo, which is sticky at first, and eventually more like a transparent, rubbery substance. It stopped spreading after a few minutes of heat.

 

So I did the same for the tank, but just back and forth for a while. Then I drained the excess back into the paint container (it says not to leave puddles), and allowed it to simply cure.

 

Both tanks are now just chillin', curin', and dryin'.

 

Now, you can still see the rust that didn't come out, but this stuff makes an airtight coat to prevent it from furthering. So far, this product seems solid.

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For anyone interested it is the "Northern Radiator Tank Liner Kit" which is a 3 step process.

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Looks like a solid move. If possible, you might want to throw in a cheap fuel filter before the factory filter for the first few hundred miles, so if anything comes out it will take out the cheap filter and you can replace it with another filter or if it looks clean after running it, replace it with fuel line.

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Looks like a solid move. If possible, you might want to throw in a cheap fuel filter before the factory filter for the first few hundred miles, so if anything comes out it will take out the cheap filter and you can replace it with another filter or if it looks clean after running it, replace it with fuel line.

 

Completely agreed.

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Both tanks are in, all lines attached. Working on fuel system. Specifically trying to figure out where in the hell i want to put the fuel pump. The stock location is ummmm. Well, another fire hazard. See these 2 studs? That's where the stock pump sits.

 

I'm starting to wonder if Lamborghini wanted these things to just burn down lol.

DBNvohC.jpg

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Ok, got it figured out. So while the exhaust continues along to the rear, there's virtually nowhere I'm going to be "safe" to completely relocate it in a manner that is going to be devoid of exhaust entirely.

 

I decided to run one of the braided lines along up inside and then out of the fender liner, which will take it into an area that can be tucked away and heat shielded (should be easy to fabricate one). Then run that up near the trunk area. From there it goes into the Y and tada!

 

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If properly tucked away this will clear the suspension as well as the transmission, the exhaust and the axle shaft. Groovy baby.

 

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Progress. Almost there.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Alright. So yesterday I got it nearly ready. Today is finish up the wiring. I plan on running a separate harness for the standalone and engine instead of trying to wire it into the old harness. I think that'll be a much better idea in terms of making sure that things are... more reliable.

 

After looking at the diagram there's a lot of places I could splice things into, but at the end of the day there's far less room for failure if it has its own harness for the engine. Then the factory harness can simply run things like the lights, signals, and dash. That way if something does ever go wrong I'm not chasing down a factory diagram to go, "Ok, well this goes here, and could be here, and there, and... ah man what a mess."

 

Exhaust is entirely finished and muffler mounted. The factory donuts were $80 each, and I found the same kind of donuts at oreiley's for $3.50 each. No brainer.

 

My issue though is that it's at kind of a forward angle. It's straight and level. But it pulls in to one side more than the other, even though I've dabbled with aligning it the best I can. This is fine though, all I need to do is fabricate an adjustable plate on the one side to move it out and align it and i'll be fine. Small beans for now, I just want to make sure all runs proper and can tune it.

 

I figured I may as well put new seals in "while i'm down there".

 

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If you look on the right side you can see how one exhaust tip is further back than the other, which is what I mean. But like I said, an adjustable plate will fix that.

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I removed the old relays in the engine bay that were useless and part of the old warmup system and engine system and for the old ignition. I've put a fuse box in place so that I can have all the injectors, ECU and other fuses there, perfect fit.

 

Now it's a matter of wiring the rest of it up, moving the unused wires underneath into the ECU area and taping them off so they're safe from noise, and getting the ignition wired up and in place. So far so good.

 

I don't know if I will definitely get my first start today but I should definitely be able to fire it up before my birthday.

 

Getting there.

mdfP1NT.jpg

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Alright, so here's where I'm at. I'm sore as hell and have been at it since 9am this morning.

New terminal for positive ran from front of car and new ground all the way to rear of the car. Fuse box has been wired up.

The brand new ignition module for the steering column is in, properly crimped and wrapped up in heat resistant sheathing. Looks beautiful. Driver side is completely sealed on the sides and floor pan and ready for carpet.

Passenger side is next.

Injectors are mostly ready. Have not wired up the new ignition system for the MSD, but i'll get that done soon.

Separate circuits ran for the megasquirt. Making a standalone harness and decided that would be much safer than splicing it into the factory harness, also less room for failure.

Very close to first start. Not a drivable first start but a first start. Very soon. Probably this week. Goal is still before my birthday (14th). I've got 5 days to do it.

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