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Resurrecting Jalpa #359


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beehive springs are a good move.

 

Slightly higher spring rate over stock, won't wipe cams. Great upgrade IMO.

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  • 2 weeks later...

We had some major clearance issues with stuff.

- head deck caused chain housing to not clear (fixed)

- the caps for the keepers on the valves wouldn't work on the new springs (had to be machined and fixed)

- o-rings for intake wouldn't work (fixed)

- coolant tubes were having clearance issues (also fixed)

The engine is finally together. The machinist is working on getting everything together tonight. We would do dyno day tomorrow, but he has some appointments for stuff tomorrow. It sounds like saturday or sunday (at the latest I'd assume) should be "the day". Fingers crossed there are no more issues.

The valve clearances are incredibly tight. At top dead center if you roll the cam over 1-2mm the valves touch the pistons. Talk about an interference motor.

Here's some photos I snagged while I dropped off more hardware and orings today. As you can see, heads finally on. The pic i took is before he relieved the chain cover, which he was getting ready to do just before I left. I'd imagine he's probably already done and by now things are likely nearly finished.

QDXEfhd.jpg

dKWF2TY.jpg

The new oil return tubes we ended up using from a VW setup.

8poCy55.jpg

V1w4UE2.jpg

G9lP7Y4.jpg

We are pretty much there.

O7kjC14.jpg

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What are your expectations once you get this on a dyno?

 

We're at a 10.4:1 compression ratio, over 3500ccs, an amazingly balanced motor, matched ports. We've increased flow substantially. The first run will probably be close to 270 we are hoping. Once I get timing dialed in and the fuel right where it needs to be, I don't think 300 is unreasonable.

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We're at a 10.4:1 compression ratio, over 3500ccs, an amazingly balanced motor, matched ports. We've increased flow substantially. The first run will probably be close to 270 we are hoping. Once I get timing dialed in and the fuel right where it needs to be, I don't think 300 is unreasonable.

and torque at what rpm? how much does the Jalpa weigh?

 

Seems to me if you are around 3000lbs or a little more you'll have similar original NSX power weight ratio.

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and torque at what rpm? how much does the Jalpa weigh?

 

Seems to me if you are around 3000lbs or a little more you'll have similar original NSX power weight ratio.

 

Good question, going to be hard to tell till we've got that on the dyno but we should see a good 15% increase. Factory specs are 235ft lbs of torque at 3250, we should see close to 250, hopefully more, especially with the compression bump. We've removed anything with parasitic drag on the motor. No A/C, which should also reduce weight. Removing the old fuel system and going to CF instead of the heavy airboxes also helps. Stock I believe was 3200-3300lbs. By the time I'm done it should be a lighter, far peppier car.

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Good question, going to be hard to tell till we've got that on the dyno but we should see a good 15% increase. Factory specs are 235ft lbs of torque at 3250, we should see close to 250, hopefully more, especially with the compression bump. We've removed anything with parasitic drag on the motor. No A/C, which should also reduce weight. Removing the old fuel system and going to CF instead of the heavy airboxes also helps. Stock I believe was 3200-3300lbs. By the time I'm done it should be a lighter, far peppier car.

Keep it up, I want this thread finished so we can see the finished product, then again I don't. Really interesting stuff.

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Keep it up, I want this thread finished so we can see the finished product, then again I don't. Really interesting stuff.

 

More than anything, I am VERY excited to have the first truly ITB built motor on a Jalpa that I've seen. It'll be so fun to fire it up this weekend *fingers crossed no more hurdles* with ITBs, and my own built fuel system.

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Engine is now timed.

NQTtt5b.jpg

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Spoke to him this morning. I'll be dropping off the rest of my fuel system tonight. He's got appointments this morning and then in the afternoon will be rigging the engine up to the dyno. So, basically as long as everything on the skid gets hooked up and good today, we should be running tomorrow. Sounds like sunday if it just goes crappy, but so far things are finally going smoothly.

 

At this point it sounds like it's just a matter of us getting things all wired up, cleared on the skid, and we should be groovy. I'll touch base tonight after I drop things off so we have a better idea of tomorrow or sunday. Fingers crossed I can get off work early today, so i can get stuff to him sooner than later. Then it'll be a matter of going to the bank monday, paying, and forever being sad that he is moving to arizona.

 

I'm really going to miss him. He's the coolest car guy I've met in these parts, knows his stuff, and is just an all around good guy.

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frustration ensues. my machinist finally put things together, and the timing belt is too short with the new alternator. grabbed an 89 tooth timing belt, and a 92 tooth timing belt. One is too long, the other too short. I need 90 or 91 teeth. I can only find some dayco part #s, 94061 or 95178 will work. I'm willing to make a weekend daytrip to portland if i need to, but I NEED these belts or dyno day won't happen. Just split with my gf, work is crazy and now this. Ready to light everything on fire and go crawl in a hole. So mad, frustrated, disappointed and overall just angry. I just want one thing to go right for once. Just one thing.

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Whatever you do do not light anything on fire 🙏 just think about it it's only a belt a tiny piece of rubber and fabric, just go and get the right one and everything will be back to normal in no time. :icon_thumleft:

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I've found 2 suppliers that can have the belts here tuesday, if i have them air shipped. I will talk to my boss on monday (assuming the dyno is ready to go on monday) to try and take tuesday off, otherwise it'll be tuesday evening. So long as these belts arrive, dyno day will be on. I'm frustrated as hell as my machinist has straight up told me that is the last day he will work on my engine, period. I understand that though, as he has put off moving to finish my motor, so understandably, life has to go on for him. I just want to make sure my engine runs before he takes off.

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On a positive note, the engine is starting to look complete.

P0wMbzq.jpg

 

onzUeiX.jpg

 

Always a good reminder to refresh yourself on where you started.

WqFpShh.jpg

 

CofZ2uG.jpg

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Home stretch. Is the car pretty much ready to drop the engine engine in and go?

 

If we can get a timing belt by tuesday yes.

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On a positive note, the engine is starting to look complete.

P0wMbzq.jpg

 

onzUeiX.jpg

 

Always a good reminder to refresh yourself on where you started.

WqFpShh.jpg

 

CofZ2uG.jpg

 

That engine looks better than new. No time for dog ate my homework.

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That engine looks better than new. No time for dog ate my homework.

I've been saving the really crazy before pictures for dyno day. Once it fires up, I'll show them.

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Linkage is good, oil pressure is good, engine is primed, fuel is good, ignition and megasquirt is ready. I'm literally just waiting for UPS to show up with my timing belts and it's go time.

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Linkage is good, oil pressure is good, engine is primed, fuel is good, ignition and megasquirt is ready. I'm literally just waiting for UPS to show up with my timing belts and it's go time.

 

 

Should have paid extra for an early delivery! I am sure the waiting is killing you.

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Should have paid extra for an early delivery! I am sure the waiting is killing you.

 

That is the extra for an early delivery. Both got delayed due to "weather". So "out for delivery" is the best i can get.

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