Resurrecting Jalpa #359

More wiring found... more wiring removed. *sigh* the wiring, the wiring, the wiring. Hopefully this week will have the harness totally out of the car.

Also... having a serious struggle with the ignition key. This is apparently "a common thing" and I've seen it reported on various forums where they just stops turning. It locks in the ignition and won't turn. Some people manage to move it, etc. However, I can't.

 

I've tried taking the lock cylinder out of the steering column and it gets hung up. I can press the release pin inside and it acts like it wants to come out ALMOST, the it gets hung up on something. I've been told the key HAS to turn to take it out. WTF. How the hell do you get these damn things out? I thought the only thing holding it in was the 3 holding screws and the steering wheel lock. Is there ANOTHER lock I'm missing? Why does the key have to turn to take it out aside from the steering wheel lock? Is there 2 locks? So pissed right now.

It sounds like you have found the key to weight savings!!! Just remove the wiring lol

 

Yes the key issue is a normal thing for the Jalpa. Check the other board for old threads about the issue.

 

My old Jalpa had a funny issue related to the key! I would drive around town and then park, when I took the key out of the ignition the car would just stay running. Sometimes I would not be able to turn the car off. I never sorted out this problem because it didn't happen that often and there was always a bigger issue lol

..........I've tried taking the lock cylinder out of the steering column and it gets hung up. I can press the release pin inside and it acts like it wants to come out ALMOST, the it gets hung up on something. I've been told the key HAS to turn to take it out........

IIRC you turn the key to line up with the small arrow on the front face of the lock and it should come out.

IIRC you turn the key to line up with the small arrow on the front face of the lock and it should come out.

 

That's the issue though, the key won't turn at all. I'm still fighting the damn thing today. I don't want to break the key off. But it's acting as if the wheel is locked. The wheel is OFF. I've even put it back on and tried putting pressure on it, it simply refuses to turn. I might try tapping it lightly in case the tumbler is stuck. It's literally like it is frozen solid.

Success!

 

I sprayed the fcuk out of the lock cylinder with penetrating oil. I then tapped on it with a brass mallet on the front. Then I used the handle (not the mallet head) to slap the side of the lock cylinder while I jiggled the key. After a few minutes, IT STARTED TO MOVE! Seconds later *CLICK* it broke loose and I could pop it out.

 

This one has obviously been replaced. It does not have an arrow or factory marking which leads me to believe it's probably a fiat replacement (as the other board spoke of). The wiring on the back has also obviously been tampered with and is in NO way factory. It looks horrid, and since the entire thing is sticking, I'll opt to get another fiat replacement mechanism for the back.

 

Nothing a good ole sledge hammer won't take care of

Alright... help me understand some carb stuff....

 

I've seen some reasonable prices and some OUTRAGEOUS prices for Weber carbs. I know that these are supposed to be DCNF 42 carbs. However, I've read that the DCNF40 carbs allow for a larger venturi? Is this true?

 

I'm curious...

 

The DCNF42 carbs are hard as hell to find. The DCNF 40s are very plentiful. Are there any issues at all with installing DCNF 40s compared to DCNF 42 carbs on this engine? What are the issues if so? Upsides? Downsides?

 

My expertise is fuel injection, not carbs.

After doing a bunch of searching today and calling various shops, these carbs are a pain in the ass to find. EFI is sounding better and better.

So no direct replacements for a 42?

So no direct replacements for a 42?

 

I can find none. The shops I've called talk to me like I'm some little kid that doesn't understand how cars work and tell me that it's silly to consider working on a restoration for a Jalpa. I'm rather mad as hell right now.

The 40 & the 42 dcnf should interchange. Get a cheap base gasket to confirm first of course.

The 40 & the 42 dcnf should interchange. Get a cheap base gasket to confirm first of course.

 

Yeah it sounds like it'd be a bolt up. I'm curious if I would lose any power. Diameter and bigger is not always better. We're talking 2mm. I want to be able to make more power, not less. But again, I can't imagine detrimental loss from 2mm difference.

Yeah it sounds like it'd be a bolt up. I'm curious if I would lose any power. Diameter and bigger is not always better. We're talking 2mm. I want to be able to make more power, not less. But again, I can't imagine detrimental loss from 2mm difference.

 

 

It might run better, low end. Not as rich. Can you rebuild the old carbs?

It might run better, low end. Not as rich. Can you rebuild the old carbs?

 

No. They sat for so long there is holes in the float bowls. On most carbs that's not an issue since they can be replaced. On DCNF carbs, they are one unit. I had a local carb guy check them out and he said his major concern even if the bowls could be repaired was the fuel passages being just as bad.

 

As plentiful as the DCNF 40s are, i may go that route.

 

You say run LESS rich? Does the Jalpa inherently run rich?

No. They sat for so long there is holes in the float bowls. On most carbs that's not an issue since they can be replaced. On DCNF carbs, they are one unit. I had a local carb guy check them out and he said his major concern even if the bowls could be repaired was the fuel passages being just as bad.

 

As plentiful as the DCNF 40s are, i may go that route.

 

You say run LESS rich? Does the Jalpa inherently run rich?

 

 

I can't say for sure, I don't have any to compare to. Mine could stand to be leaned out a little when I get a chance. I think Lamborghini tended to make all of their carbed cars run rich. As did Ferrari. Remember that the 42dcnf is the same carb on a down draught QV, and that engine only has 2 more carbs than your Jalpa, but a great deal more displacement.

I can't say for sure, I don't have any to compare to. Mine could stand to be leaned out a little when I get a chance. I think Lamborghini tended to make all of their carbed cars run rich. As did Ferrari. Remember that the 42dcnf is the same carb on a down draught QV, and that engine only has 2 more carbs than your Jalpa, but a great deal more displacement.

 

Yeah but even Ferrari tended to use the DCNF 40s from what I can see. Although in comparison, we're talking a 3.0L vs 3.5L. Hmm. I mean one could rejet a carb to run more rich too if necessary.

I hate to do this to you.... but did you ever read post 160?

I hate to do this to you.... but did you ever read post 160?

 

I did, and at the time was not sure where my carbs were at 100% in hopes I could fix them and hesitated buying those. Hindsight is 20/20 and I cannot change the past.

I was just teasing you.... I was keeping a look out and poking around ebay for a couple weeks thinking you might be hunting.

 

The 42 DCNFs seem to come up on ebay from time to time and I have seen some good deals come and go.

 

There are 4 up there right now. Looks like the bases may be different, but if you keep an eye out, you will probably fine a good set. http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Sequential-Weber...f6a&vxp=mtr

 

Reading from the old Lamborghini books, the switch from 40s to 42s was to get added power, but also to compensate for going from a 3 liter engine to a 3.5 liter. I would worry a little about getting enough mixture in there. I am NO expert by any stretch of the imagination, but that would be the concern I would look into. Knowing about ignition systems, you probably have a better idea than I do, but I think it is the engine capacity increase that called for bigger carbs.

I was just teasing you.... I was keeping a look out and poking around ebay for a couple weeks thinking you might be hunting.

 

The 42 DCNFs seem to come up on ebay from time to time and I have seen some good deals come and go.

 

There are 4 up there right now. Looks like the bases may be different, but if you keep an eye out, you will probably fine a good set. http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Sequential-Weber...f6a&vxp=mtr

 

Reading from the old Lamborghini books, the switch from 40s to 42s was to get added power, but also to compensate for going from a 3 liter engine to a 3.5 liter. I would worry a little about getting enough mixture in there. I am NO expert by any stretch of the imagination, but that would be the concern I would look into. Knowing about ignition systems, you probably have a better idea than I do, but I think it is the engine capacity increase that called for bigger carbs.

 

Yeah I saw those, am watching them. We'll see if the bids go up up and away or not.

What could the fuel possibly have been ...methanol In 35 years of working with Webers I have never seen a gasoline type fuel eat through the zinc alloy ?!?

 

Any gasoline type fuel evaporates right out of the carbs within a few weeks even in winter!

 

As far as bore size goes...keep in mind that any DCNF/IDA/IDF etc has an auxiliary venturi...which is quite a bit smaller than the bore size of the carburetor itself.

 

Paul

 

 

No. They sat for so long there is holes in the float bowls. On most carbs that's not an issue since they can be replaced. On DCNF carbs, they are one unit. I had a local carb guy check them out and he said his major concern even if the bowls could be repaired was the fuel passages being just as bad.

 

As plentiful as the DCNF 40s are, i may go that route.

 

You say run LESS rich? Does the Jalpa inherently run rich?

 

Have you spoke to the guys at Weber Carbs Direct In NY?

Any luck on finding some carbs? There are a couple auctions for 42 DCNFs on eBay currently. A set of 2 and a set of 3.

 

I had a thought on the damage. People here will have to tell me if this is feasible. If someone basted them in carb cleaner and let the cleaner sit for long enough, would it eat away metal? For example, if you filled the bowls with carb cleaner and left it there for long enough, would it cause the damage you foundl?

 

I have a lawn mower that stopped working because it sat for years and the gas evaporated. I spent an hour dousing the carb with cleaner. It did not get it going, so I put it back in the shed in disgust. Wondering if I should go look at my mower again.....

Any luck on finding some carbs? There are a couple auctions for 42 DCNFs on eBay currently. A set of 2 and a set of 3.

 

I had a thought on the damage. People here will have to tell me if this is feasible. If someone basted them in carb cleaner and let the cleaner sit for long enough, would it eat away metal? For example, if you filled the bowls with carb cleaner and left it there for long enough, would it cause the damage you foundl?

 

I have a lawn mower that stopped working because it sat for years and the gas evaporated. I spent an hour dousing the carb with cleaner. It did not get it going, so I put it back in the shed in disgust. Wondering if I should go look at my mower again.....

 

At this point I'm going to go through the motor first before searching for carbs. From what I've been told from various carb places, I'm actually better off finding some DCNF 44s instead of 40s as they are larger, and can still be leaned out enough if so desired.

 

For now, I'm concentrating on the wiring harness and redoing things at my pace. It's warming up a bit, so as I'm up to it, I'll post a few pics and progress here and there.