Resurrecting Jalpa #359

Derek, you are one lucky mofo. Have him send all the pictures he has or have copies made. Very important for your archives.

 

I certainly don't think it'd be fair to request the originals since this is also the history of his own company. However, I'd be down for some scanned photos or copies.

 

360challenge would that be ok if I sent you a few bucks your way to get some copies made sometime, or hell, even if you have a scanner, digital copies so I can make my own? This is exciting stuff!

I remember the hideaway safes, smoke screens, 5 pronged jacks, disappearing license plates... even the mercedes that could hide an UZI in its steering wheel.

good memory, and stuff we couldn't even begin to explain. a true Niche market....

good memory, and stuff we couldn't even begin to explain. a true Niche market....

That it truly was...

some great stuff happening in this thread, seems like this car ha a really interesting life!

 

 

 

Oh, i had a similar type of finding recently with a certain Ferrari 275 GTB NART spyder (1 of 10 ever built for Chinetti) that changed hands not long ago. i did all the custom work on this masterpiece in 1977 (in my fathers driveway, CB radio and all) and then my customer traded the NART ( and paid up $$....) for a new 78 930 turbo" WHOOSH" which we customized to the nines. imagine his surprise when he found out car went on to be worth 10's of millions. i remember driving the NART around LI to tune the SWR on the antenna i had color matched to the body. And no, i did NOT drill a hole in the alloy body back then, rather fashioned a discrete clip attachment. The Ultrasmith work survived even in that car for some time.......

 

 

 

Doh!! Terrific period stories.

You should watch the show Wheeler Dealers on the Urraco episode. You will find it interesting.

You should watch the show Wheeler Dealers on the Urraco episode. You will find it interesting.

 

I have it saved on my DVR

Nope. I'm still somewhere bent between "Let's convert this mofo to EFI" and "I'd like to go with carbs" so engine rebuild first... carbs/efi later.

 

Please do the ITB:s and modern software. It 's a lot better for the engine too.

Please do the ITB:s and modern software. It 's a lot better for the engine too.

 

It's quite tempting. A friend of mine runs a tuning shop over in albany with a dyno. He is very familiar with the newer software and standalone ECUs so it would not be hard to get a dyno tuned setup. He said he primarily has gone with the AEM EMS. Realistically, for the price of "good as new" webers, I could probably do a full engine management system converted to EFI.

I have it saved on my DVR

Me too. Looking forward to referencing it if I even need to do that same work on mine. BTW, love that green. Would consider it if I ever repaint.

These CV joints can go fcuk themselves. I finally got one out. Those metal dowels are a royal pain in the ass when the CV joints have probably never been out before. They were sticky as all hell to come out. One more and the engine can FINALLY come out.

 

It's quite tempting. A friend of mine runs a tuning shop over in albany with a dyno. He is very familiar with the newer software and standalone ECUs so it would not be hard to get a dyno tuned setup. He said he primarily has gone with the AEM EMS. Realistically, for the price of "good as new" webers, I could probably do a full engine management system converted to EFI.

Think about the restomod this way.

With modern timing, sparking etc you will get a lot more horses from engine while putting a lot less strain to it. = Reliable power.

I would go with any software that you have the best local knowledge.

 

 

Do you use original gas tank or do you put in a new unit?

Think about the restomod this way.

With modern timing, sparking etc you will get a lot more horses from engine while putting a lot less strain to it. = Reliable power.

I would go with any software that you have the best local knowledge.

 

 

Do you use original gas tank or do you put in a new unit?

 

You know, that's a very good point. I'm very familiar with megasquirt at this point. However, the one thing I've learned with megasquirt is that it makes more sense to go ahead and use a separate ignition system. So a combo of megasquirt tied in with MSD ignition could be reliable and very good. Alternatively, the new AEM EMS units look enticing and are supposedly nearly plug and play.

 

My hangup would be to find ITBs that work in the place of DCNF webers. Although someone linked me to some a few weeks ago, I'll have to find them again. I think they would probably fit better than the carbs, be easier to work on than the carbs, and once dialed in, I won't have to touch it.

These CV joints can go fcuk themselves. I finally got one out. Those metal dowels are a royal pain in the ass when the CV joints have probably never been out before. They were sticky as all hell to come out. One more and the engine can FINALLY come out.

 

 

How are you taking the engine out? Are you taking it out the top? The engine can drop out the bottom still on the sub-frame as a complete unit with no need to undo the CV joints until after removal.

How are you taking the engine out? Are you taking it out the top? The engine can drop out the bottom still on the sub-frame as a complete unit with no need to undo the CV joints until after removal.

 

Going out the bottom. To my knowledge it can't go out the top. At least, if it can, I imagine it'd be 20x more complicated to do. Most removals I've seen pics of are all from the bottom.

Going out the bottom. To my knowledge it can't go out the top. At least, if it can, I imagine it'd be 20x more complicated to do. Most removals I've seen pics of are all from the bottom.

 

Why not drop it out now? I guess I do not understand why you are taking the CV joints apart first. Your post makes it sound like that has to be done before the engine can come out...

Why not drop it out now? I guess I do not understand why you are taking the CV joints apart first. Your post makes it sound like that has to be done before the engine can come out...

 

Well the CV joints do have to be disconnected first. I can see no way the engine comes out without the CVs disconnected unless you want the entire suspension of the car to come with it.

Well the CV joints do have to be disconnected first. I can see no way the engine comes out without the CVs disconnected unless you want the entire suspension of the car to come with it.

 

I thought that was the way it was usually done. Suspension and all. Several pictures of it coming out that way on the Jalpa home page.

 

I don't think it matters one way or the other, but I don't think you have to take those CV joints apart if you want the engine out sooner than later. If you look at the "engine mount fix" thread on the Jalpa site, you can see they did a lot of work to the engine and never bothered to remove the suspension at all.

Jalpa Home Page

Wow. Am I overcomplicating this? Hmm.

I am not looking at the car, but is it not just the three bolts at the top of the strut towers holding the suspension to the rest of the car? Regardless, it should be easier than what you describe with the CV joints.

I am not looking at the car, but is it not just the three bolts at the top of the strut towers holding the suspension to the rest of the car? Regardless, it should be easier than what you describe with the CV joints.

 

Ok... after looking at it with everything the way you're describing... I can see how that would all just come out. Man... this whole time lol.

Wait. What is going on in here? A bit of mechanical knowledge that Derek didn't already possess? I don't believe it!

Surprise! You kinda learn as you go along with Lambos sometimes.

Wait. What is going on in here? A bit of mechanical knowledge that Derek didn't already possess? I don't believe it!

 

I never claimed to know everything, come on now

 

Surprise! You kinda learn as you go along with Lambos sometimes.

 

True true. Although this might make my life easier.... since so much of it will be on the floor to work on. It doesn't look like much needs to be dropped to get the engine out if this is the case.

I vote for ITB and put all the OEM parts in a box. Keep that box.