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Teach me about garage lifts


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I only have 105 inches, floor to ceiling.

 

Also, is that an old picture, or did you decide not to sell the G?

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David, i'm sure the company is giving you a "safe" figure. If you do a high door conversion, the rails can/will essentially run right on the ceiling so say you'll still have 100" of clearance. You need to add the height of whatever cars you're planning on storing in there plus the space for the platform, which is around 4.5-6" if I recall. Then there,needs to be a fudge factor because the lifts has certain stopping points along the way and can't stop wherever. I.e., 48" tall car, there may be a 48" stopping point, which would be too close, and then a 52" stopping point. You're going to be cutting it close but 2 low height vehicle is still doable.

 

Edit: You will for sure need the side wall mounted rotary lift mechanism vice the normal ceiling mount just in case this wasn't obvious already lol.

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What's your ceiling height in that garage, Jeff?

 

 

Its obvious the height of his garage is equal to a bentleys width while parked on its side....

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Its obvious the height of his garage is equal to a bentleys width while parked on its side....

 

 

Haha.

 

Drip pans and make sure you get the aluminum ramps. I made the mistake of being a cheap ass and got the standard steel ramps. Holy shit are they heavy.

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Haha.

 

Drip pans and make sure you get the aluminum ramps. I made the mistake of being a cheap ass and got the standard steel ramps. Holy shit are they heavy.

LOL I did the same exact thing, they are like 40lbs each, try lining these up at midnight after having a few drinks ;)

the ramps that are attached and fold down are best.

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My two existing cars that would go in/under the lift are 51.1" height (SL) and 45.9" (G). That's 97" right there, and the SL is prob on its way out, with the replacement car more than likely being taller (Audi rs5 is on the list).

 

Even with the existing set up, I only have 8" of clearance, and that doesn't factor in the different stop points on the lift that Chip brought up...

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I think that's going to be cutting it too close! I thought my ceiling was low at 116". Yours could work but you'd have to triple check the stopping points and measurements. Maybe lower each vehicle an inch :)

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I didnt have room for the fold up ramps, and the steel ones are heavy! I have a Bendpack and a Danmar, both owned and made by the same company from what I can see Costco sells the Danmar a lot cheaper...10 ft ceiling works find, didnt even have to move the garage door opener...in either garage..

LOL I did the same exact thing, they are like 40lbs each, try lining these up at midnight after having a few drinks ;)

the ramps that are attached and fold down are best.

 

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We love our lift. Cost was about $4,000. Our ceiling height is 105 inches. You need to be very exact in your measurements. As you can see 2 Carreras stacked barely fits. You need to figure a couple of extra inches. You have to raise the car above the safety stop until the latch engages and then drop the car down onto the stop. The top car actually goes about 2 inches above what you see to get the safety stop to engage. It takes about 2 minutes to lift a car. It seems slow until you get close to the ceiling. Fortunately we have never hit the roof of a car.

20141205_222604.jpg

 

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Haha.

 

Drip pans and make sure you get the aluminum ramps. I made the mistake of being a cheap ass and got the standard steel ramps. Holy shit are they heavy.

Our aluminum ramps weigh a frickin ton. I can't imagine steel. Maybe Lamborghini will sell logoed carbon fiber!

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We love our lift. Cost was about $4,000. Our ceiling height is 105 inches. You need to be very exact in your measurements. As you can see 2 Carreras stacked barely fits. You need to figure a couple of extra inches. You have to raise the car above the safety stop until the latch engages and then drop the car down onto the stop. The top car actually goes about 2 inches above what you see to get the safety stop to engage. It takes about 2 minutes to lift a car. It seems slow until you get close to the ceiling. Fortunately we have never hit the roof of a car.

20141205_222604.jpg

 

 

couldn't you put a little recession in the ceiling? like a coffer? That may be the wrong term, but would give you another 4" maybe?

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couldn't you put a little recession in the ceiling? like a coffer? That may be the wrong term, but would give you another 4" maybe?

 

This is exactly what I'm working on right now. I'm wondering, is anyone in this forum a residential structural engineer?

 

The garage has an existing engineered truss system and a GC buddy of mine and I came up with a great idea for reinforcing it and removing the bottom chord of the existing trusses. The local structural engineers want an architectural drawing in order to evaluate it, and although I understand the importance of having a professional look it over, it's a strange idea to spend more on the architectural drawing and structural engineer that I would spend on the lumber to raise the ceiling, and purchasing and installing the lift combined.

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This is exactly what I'm working on right now. I'm wondering, is anyone in this forum a residential structural engineer?

 

The garage has an existing engineered truss system and a GC buddy of mine and I came up with a great idea for reinforcing it and removing the bottom chord of the existing trusses. The local structural engineers want an architectural drawing in order to evaluate it, and although I understand the importance of having a professional look it over, it's a strange idea to spend more on the architectural drawing and structural engineer that I would spend on the lumber to raise the ceiling, and purchasing and installing the lift combined.

 

The stresses on engineered truss systems when incorporated to the whole structure of a building are a lot greater than you may first think. You absolutely need to have an engineer review it, and keep the approved plans for the new owner when you sell the house. If anything goes wrong 10 years from now it could be your ass.

 

Have you tried going back to the guy who originally did the plans on the house? Many times they will do things like this very reasonably.

 

Wish I could help you out, but this is pretty far outside my scope.

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I only have 105 inches, floor to ceiling.

 

Also, is that an old picture, or did you decide not to sell the G?

 

I Sold my G last week. I'll measure my ceiling tonight and let you know.

I had to have a custom garage door opener installed..It brings the garage door up to ~4 Inches from the ceiling.

 

 

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The stresses on engineered truss systems when incorporated to the whole structure of a building are a lot greater than you may first think. You absolutely need to have an engineer review it, and keep the approved plans for the new owner when you sell the house. If anything goes wrong 10 years from now it could be your ass.

 

Have you tried going back to the guy who originally did the plans on the house? Many times they will do things like this very reasonably.

 

Wish I could help you out, but this is pretty far outside my scope.

 

Good idea, but the house was built so long ago, there's no way to get that info...

 

Framer coming tomorrow to evaluate (free) and then I'll go from there.

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Good idea, but the house was built so long ago, there's no way to get that info...

 

Framer coming tomorrow to evaluate (free) and then I'll go from there.

 

When was it built? Single or two story? Are you positive it's an engineered truss? If it's a 2 story home, are you thinking they are gluelam beams or engineered I beams?

 

I was under the impression this was a newer home and we were talking about engineered pre-fab roof trusses.

 

 

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I think it was built in 1968, and no, I'm not sure. It wasn't done on site though because of the way the wood is put together.

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I think it was built in 1968, and no, I'm not sure. It wasn't done on site though because of the way the wood is put together.

 

You definitely don't have engineered trusses then. Can you get a visual of the framing?

 

My entire outlook on this has changed, shouldn't be a huge deal.

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I am not an engineer but those trusses look only good enough to carry the roof I wouldn't be hanging anything else from them if that's your intention. Talk to a structural engineer before you touch them.

 

Also I didn't think they were using truss connector plates ( http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Truss_connector_plate ) back in the 60's but I could be wrong, those trusses look like they were manufactured a bit later than the 60's

 

Scratch the above, they had them in the 60's! Learning something interesting everyday!

 

Automated Building Components, Inc went public in 1961 and grew to have operations around the world manufacturing connector plates, machinery, roof/floor trusses and roof tile as well as providing computerized engineering services. It was acquired by Redlands Corporation (a large European manufacturer of cement roof tiles) in 1979. It was later sold to a group of investors and renamed MiTek. MiTek is currently owned by the famed investor Warren Buffett.

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Seems that was the norm in trusses in the 60's for sure.

 

Sure surprised me, I had no idea they were that common in the 60's. But they sure are engineered, so I wouldn't modify them without professional consultation.

 

well, we sure did some laps there didn't we lol.

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Sure surprised me, I had no idea they were that common in the 60's. But they sure are engineered, so I wouldn't modify them without professional consultation.

 

well, we sure did some laps there didn't we lol.

 

:iamwithstupid:

 

TBH I thought it was a product of late 70's early 80's.

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Sure surprised me, I had no idea they were that common in the 60's. But they sure are engineered, so I wouldn't modify them without professional consultation.

 

well, we sure did some laps there didn't we lol.

 

 

lol. Yep, we did. It's cool though. I have a framer coming out tomorrow for an estimate on some other stuff and I'm going to run it by him and see what he says. Surely I'm not the first person in the world to want to do this.

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