gmendoza

Early Murcies, 02-04, had manual tensioners, all other murcies have the self-adjusting tensioners. I agree though, I don't think a slipping belt is your issue.

A very common failure that will prevent you from shifting out of neutral is a failed brake pedal switch. Without diagnostic software, you can confirm your brake pedal switch is bad if you can shift out of neutral with the engine not running and you can shift just fine out of neutral if you get the car rolling a bit. Ideally, you'd use diagnostic software. Your unlock issue could be from loose linkage on the locking mechanism inside the door.

I did the math to calculate the difference between the gearing of the front axle vs the rear axle. I came up with 7%. OEM tires have a difference of about 6% front to rear. From what I've seen, 4% difference is enough to cause damage on a long distance and/or high speed drive. As long as you end up with a 5-7% difference, you should be OK. Side note, it seems like the latest version of the front Rosso is borderline too tall according to tire rack for my liking. P ZERO CORSA SYSTEM specs are still spot on.

A failed accumulator will fill very quickly and drain very quickly like Sprite said. If there was an internal leak, it'll take normal time to fill but drain quickly.

Those $7.5k clutch jobs dont include a TOB and are usually rebuilt clutches. Not that there's anything wrong with a rebuilt clutch if done right. Heck i've seen warped Valeo pressure plates out of the box but that's another story. Second, if your misfire was detected by exhaust pressure sensors and you have an aftermarket exhaust, your exhaust could be the problem. I have a fix for that. It could also be a legitimate misfire but I'd like to know for sure. Right now it seems like they are just throwing plugs at it and hope it fixes the misfire.

Glad you got it sorted. To update the thread. As it has been stated, Gruven now offers high torque motors. I strongly advise AGAINST these. These work great on the GM trucks but not on the Murcie. The Murcie relies on a small post to limit travel of the mirror. High torque motors could put too much stress on this post on potentially lead to failure, My recommendation is to modify the oem motor, if you are using the brass gear (definately recommend the breass gear), by removing the noise suppressor inside the little electric motor. Gruven can also supply you with modded, oem motors.

Everything on the car is left and right as viewed from the rear EXCEPT when it comes to the internals of the engine. The engine internals are viewed from the flywheel.

Phil, why not remove the banjo fitting from the rack? That way you slip the hose onto the fitting off the car, slip the hose on to the pipe with fitting attached to opposite end, connect the fitting to the rack.

Big difference between stock SV and stock Murcie muffler

I just installed a set of wrinkle-finished, pie-cut pipes that can be used with stock airboxes or with cone filters. I installed them with cone filters. I love the way the wrinkle finish matches the plenum, looks stock. My car previously had BMC high-flow filters. As for performance, I have a broken butt-dyno so I can't tell the difference but I am satisfied. Before, you could hear the air initially rush into the airbox that would eventually turn into something that was almost drone like. I always thought it was the exhaust drone but it's not. It was the airbox. Now, there's a much cleaner intake sound with these filters. I like. Thanks Nick!! Here are some pics:

I'm somewhat local, let me know if you want me to take care of them. Glad you finally got this sorted. I just saw it.

lol, soon.

Thanks guys. I actually gave it some attention this weekend, drove it to a yearly 928 meet.

Here's a vid I made of the story of my 928 plus my opinion of the car, Enjoy

have you checked for codes?

Since photobucket wont allow linking, I rehosted the pics: To remove the mirror: Pop off the panel exposing the bolts & the panel exposing the connector. (borrowed the pic from the web) Undo the connector, fish the mirror wires through the slot in the door panel. Unfortunately, the door panel on this car pinched the wires, so I had to loosen the door panel. Here are good instruction on door panel removal. http://www.safeer.us/how-to-fix-diy-lambor...comment-page-1/ Remove the 3 bolts holding the mirror on, fish the wires through the door, and remove the mirror. Separate the two mirror pieces: The remove the center bolt and remove the round beauty cover exposing the four bolts on the bottom of the mirror. Remove the four bolts Separate the two mirror pieces by wiggling the fixed triangle piece away from the mirror housing. The two pieces are held together by the four bolts removed in the previous step and a post that rides on a socket on the fixed triangle piece. Mirror housing post: Triangle piece socket: To disassemble the mirror housing: Pop off the mirror glass and disconnect the heater wires off the mirror glass. The glass snaps in place with the tabs circled in red. CAUTION: As you can see, the glass has no reinforcement and you will have the pry the glass off. So there's a high chance of breaking the glass. I used a small hook to lift the tabs as I pried the glass off. Lambo has revised the glass and now the glass is completely backed by plastic giving the glass much more support. New glass is about $120 from Glen @ AMH. Remove the six bolts. Take care not to lose (or forget during assembly) the plastic shield circled in yellow: remove the lone bolt circled: remove the motor assembly from the housing taking care not to damage the paint To remove the motor from the housing: Remove the three socket head bolts (there are nuts on the other side of the bolts): Undo the mirror adjuster connector and fish the wires out. You may have to loosen the bolts circled to make room to fish the connector out (there are three). Lift the motor out the housing Here's the motor: Now you have two options. One is to replace the motor with one off ebay. Unfortunately I could not find a source for a new motor only. Pros of this option is that it fits & works perfect. Con is you still have the same crappy plastic gear that will break sooner or later. If you decide to replace it, just match it to the pic above. Left or right doesn't matter. The other option is to take your motor apart and replace the gear. I found a company that 3D prints replacement gears. You can buy the gears here: http://www.gruvenparts.com/gruvenparts-com...irror-assembly/ Instructions to replace the gear are here (go to step 8 on page 13 for our application) http://www.gruvenparts.com/content/PDF/Gru..._Mirror_DIY.pdf Even though the instructions say "You Must Use the GruvenParts.com replacement motors when using this brass gear", you can get away with using your original electric motor if you use plastic washers on the 3 bolts securing the mirror to the door. Pros of going with this option are that its a much stronger gear that will probably never break. If they do, they replace it. Now, all is not perfect in the world and I hope Gruven can improve on this. The resolution of the print is not very high. So I had to use a small file to clean out some flash from between the teeth to prevent the motor from jamming. I also had to sand the face of the gear smooth to get rid of flash to also prevent jamming. Overall, I was still satisfied with the gear and would recommend it as long as you pay attention to detail. Reassemble in the reverse order and there you have it. Feel free to PayPal me a small percentage of your savings as a token of appreciation. lol Confirmed, LP670 mirror is the same. Repaired Plastique999's mirror. This particular one was stuck in the folded in position. The culprit, cracked down the middle: Here's the updated brass gear: The brass gear works much better than the old 3D printed plastic one. I'm not sure the plastic gears are still available.

Can you hear the hydraulic pump run when you open the door?

Most small evap leaks are caused by a loose gas cap or missing/deteriorated gas cap gasket.

Only downside is that you have to drill holes in your bumper.

Did you replace the electric motor too? I've done a few gear replacements and I haven't had any binding issues. Is the tiny metal washer still on the very end of the electric motor after the rubber o-ring? Also, if you remove the electric motor, install the shaft with the new gear onto the base and spin it. Does the brass gear wobble? If so, that may be your issues. It needs to be perfect.

Also, when reattaching the mirror to the door, make sure the 3 bolts dont cut through the paint. If they do and you installed the brass gears, there's a possibility of the motors shorting out blowing your fuse. If it does, just install plastic washers on the 3 bolts. That's the downside of all metal gears. When the polarity gets reversed to turn the motor in the reverse direction, voltage travels from the motor to the gears to the frame causing it to short. No big deal if properly insulated.

Its different left to right. Green to blue and gray to red on the passenger side.

Let us know how it goes. I just did another one too. No issues although you need to be careful that the brass gear stays square with the shaft as the epoxy dries. If not, it will bind.

I actually drove that car from Portland to So Cal with my friend. My friend put the deposit down on the car in early March but due to weather, we weren't able to pick up the car for a few weeks. In the meantime, the dealer was getting antsy and started entertaining other offers in case our deal didn't go through. Weather never did clear up but my friend got tired of waiting, so we flew up there, made the deal and drove the car back in the rain. Sounds like you were a back up offer.

I now have AMGgirl's gold murcie.