k-works

I seemed to have the exact same problem today. The car lifted/went down ok, I tried to drain the air bleed, strange stuff happened.. as fluid kinda went low and stopped FROM THE OPENED AIR BLEED on a running car. What I noticed as well was that with from lifted, the steering was heavy as fk, but as it went down, it was great again. I did a test drive, lift doesn’t work anymore just flashing. The way it sits seems a bit high, but like 1/2 of what I expected.

Yep, 640 got an updated diff. My bet is take the rear cover off and look for a snap ring that you’d need to manually snap off. If not, then covers.

Ok, I had a request for a rear diff for a pre-LP Murcielago, the man had broken 1 or 2 and the problem was that the spider gears were getting eaten off. pic of proof

And so, I've done it. After many many tries and failures, I've found the issue was within the motor. When the motor was unscrewing itself when hitting limit at one side, that produced upwards motion of the rotor, so the brushes went down touching the armature and then they wouldn't conduct electric force. Sooo I cleaned up the motor collector, stacked a small shim to limit the upwards travel as a precaution and bended the brush contacts a little upwards. It worked out finally. I got it apart and back like 15 times, so be sure now I'm close to god level in these poor motors.

Ffffuuuu.... It's binding again. This stuff is so strange, actually.

I had some struggles with 2010 LP640 / LP670-4 SV mirrors. Damn these motors! Initial thing, Lambo dealer said "oh, they are dead", so I got them home, took the mirrors apart, ordered GruvenParts stuff and it had arrived.. not that quick, lol. So the mirror adjustment is VW and p/n is visible and cheap. Took apart the folding motors, actually, the electric motors on 2010 come with brass spur gear unlike Escalade. How come, the motors worked fine and all plastic gears were good!!! I thought, well, okay, whatever! Cracked the gears and glued the brass ones. Actually, it was hard to break those plastic gears, they were really really tough! I almost felt sorry for them. So one gear went perfect (I used a 4mm socket to hold the shaft and gear straight), the upgraded motors were good. I didn't grind the notches that GruvenParts DIY manual recommends you to cut, as I noticed they are different to Escalade motors and may be helpful (Murcie mirrors have a smaller degree of rotation when folded). Interested to hear your opinion. The other motor went totally fcked up. Assembled - didn't work, however, did work if without the top steel cover. Reglued brass gear perfectly straight - still not good. I had grinded some of the shaft length of the electric motor, the new one was too long if compared with stock. Okay, I noticed that the intermediate shaft moves along and stuffed 2 very small washers on the spur gear side of the intermediate shaft. It worked out, but motor was struggling to move. So I ditched 1 washer and it was happy! Horray! So maybe it was the case why they didn't work well out of the box (i.e. factory mirrors). Somehow, both are good now. Had to re-assemble it 7 or 8 times, pro level. Thanks for the tips on motors shorting on the mirror base, I'll check it. p.s. Found this thread only few days ago, lol.

Right, the VT 6.0 was designed under VW-Audi. Many body parts are different. To my mind the 99+ interior stopped looking Italian (say, stopped looking Lamborghini). If you have a "facelift" disease (when people only want later versions of cars, i.e. post-facelift), it's okay. But there's a lot more Lamborghini protest/scandal feel in the early styling than the later. The only good thing about 6.0 is that they could be ordered with shorter ratios, making it quicker. Not dramatically, but basically 8-10% short ratios were possible. And yes, after 1996 (?) while you got a lighter clutch, it's a lot mechanically weaker and sometimes the fork breaks. I don't find early clutch hard at all. P.S. I don't find LM002 clutch hard as well, haha. I liked bicycles as a kid, yeah.

Yeah, right. I meant the blue one. Yeah, that color looks too radical. Anyway, it would be nice to see it closer.

We need more shots of the Countach! Is that original color?

Btw, as I know Pirelli has got a PZero System model that's readily available new. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?ti...l=P+Zero+System It's kinda that they had PZero Assimetrico and PZero Direzionale, and they had stacked both types in one style called "system". The tires do not pop up on the Pirelli website, but I've seen some shots with new stickers, so they should come up if you look after those.

Injected LM002 had different cams for sure! I'm not sure on the carb'ed LM002 as HP rating is the same. It might be just ignition timing difference. I think the springs failed due to some sort over-stress... I've never heard about other cars having the same issues, but head gaskets are weak.

Looks like, he loves his car. I don't get 25th anni, QV is thousand times better. And I like LP400 too, which isn't liked by many. I actually think that LP400 is more striking looking than a QV with a wing. The reason is that LP400 is lower and it's got less parts, making it flatter and even more strange looking. My childhood dreamcar is probably '92 2WD Diablo, of course, in yellow. It all started from her. Anyway if I get a chance, I'd build a Countach LP500 '71 prototype replica, because I like the way it was cleaner even than a production LP400. I'd start with a 25th Marchesi frame that you can still get new, hehe. ____ As for new vs old cars. I don't like new cars for being over electronic. I don't like electronic throttles nor way active traction control. And new cars seem to be slow with reaction time (idle->full WOT) which kills me. That 911 with PDK is slow too, yes. And their acceleration times is nice, but not fast enough for me.. :Р

Bumping thread from the dead. Practically, that time is already here. Only in the US carb tuners are widely spread, because of overall street performance chevy/ford/mopar culture. In Europe or even further you'd have an extremely hard time finding ones. The fun things is that I myself can be considered 2nd generation, being 27, I've tuned few cars before and multi-carb 25th countach engine was within 10 first cars I've tuned. There's nothing that much complicated, just need to pay a lot of attention and be gentle with it. You just check the synchronisation and listen to the engine. Then take a ride, check the plugs, and so on. Plus the throttle rod bends of idle and on acceleration in 2 different ways, so you gotta tune that also. I've spent 3 days understanding it, which I consider not much, if you compare thy black magic stuff that surrounds the multi-carb tuner art.

WEBER MARELLI IW031 that won't help you much as those are rare too

And so... I think it's time to post your refreshed interiors! Same question here...

Just re-do the whole wiring thing. Shouldn't take too long, basically a day to check, clean, renew and secure all the vital connections.

they are better make a shooting brake SUV, that's gonna be something

LMs are surprisingly cool in real life. The mileage of a well tuned carb'ed LM isn't that horrible from my experience, you can drive two or three days with a quick fill up (say, 15 gallons). I've had many cars with identical or even worse mileage. With a huge fuel tank you can cover decent distances as well. The tune of carb'ed engine is quite interesting, the faster you go, the better it accelerates, so getting from 60 to 120 mph is easy. 0-60s are harder, you have to go through some gears, hehe. The brakes are sometimes good, sometimes not. Depends from car to car, hard to say what's different. (Maybe, adjustment of rear drum brakes) I had the one with amazing brakes, quick-quiet-fast, no complaints. The suspension is what makes the car amazing - it eats up everything, but you feel connected. The tires are a big topic to discuss - the OE Scorpion BK tires had reinforced sidewalls (sand lip) and are stiffer. In late 90s there were Scorpion Zeros introduced - much softer sidewall, lower cost (at first), quieter, but it has more body roll in it. Also the tires due to their size kinda dance around the road, so you have to take it in the account and compensate. Sourcing BKs is a nightmare, first, they are really old. Every LM owner is praying Pirelli to reproduce them, but no answer is heard. So if you find a car with nice BKs - that's a huge bonus. Some people blame the clutch pedal for being too heavy, but actually you get used to it and after a day it seems not heavy, but adequate. The steering gear is long - that's what I don't like. Overall, once you get it serviced properly, you end up with a robust car, there's hardly a thing that can fail. (Just don't run 4x4 or 4x4 LOCKED on pavement, this might damage the transfer case) IMHO, it can be used as a daily driver. If Malcolm Forbes could do it, why couldn't you?

These are standard GKN/Loebro items, they come in different sizes, but basically the CV joints are mostly 108 mm and 100 mm in size, so most CV boots from 80s Audis/Porsches will fit. Can't say the same about LM002 huge CV joints, OE only...

The headlights are from Ferrari 308, so if you manage to find RHD 308 headlights, that should work.

The process of flushing them with fluid goes after you install them. I just couldn't figure out how to flush them on mine. The bump stops are fed with steering fluid from the steering fluid reservoir under gravity. But if you open fluid bleeding valves, nothing would happen. I just could figure out how to flush them on mine, haha. The only idea I had, but haven't tried is to open the bleeding valves and drive around some bumpy roads, so they'd pump through. Let me know how you end up. Also if you need some window seals (at the bottom) for doors I can supply you some new extra, originals are NLA. BTW, beware that ugly air pump as on most cars something goes wrong and it end up biting the fan and fan shroud. You can google around to see. I just took off the belt and moved it as far as possible (after I repaired the fan shroud and welded the fan). I'll be happy to know if you get "clogged filters" sign if you rev it past 5500 RPM on WOT. I got new filters, but maybe the engine is making more power than it should or it might be okay. So I'm curious. Again, pay a very close attention to the ignition timing. It might be weird and it's okay! So it'd be cool if you check and post the numbers. I wasn't getting full power until I checked it on RPMs. Here's a kind of LM gathering thread. Thanks, Alex.

The price for each carb should be no more than 300/one in great condition. DCOEs are very common, but it's good that they are off one car. So if they need a rebuilt, $1200 might be a fair price. I'm not interested much, just to let you know.

These are hydraulic bump stops, not the shocks, as I thought. What was the case with them? Please, let me know how you are going to flush the hydrulic lines and valves that pass through the shocks (the bump-stops). If you want some more power, I suggest you check the carbs and, more important, the ignition advance system. If you'll get me some timing that you have on idle and 4000 RPM, we can finally sum up what's up with LM002 distributors and I might advise you something. Because, sometimes you won't have the advance you really need. You should also check timing chains, because they are manually adjustable. Thanks, Alex.

BTW, Pirelli Sand Lips are available new, but once is 3-4 years. New ones are extremely rare. Don't buy Scorpion Zeros (without sand lip) they are not worth it. The sidewall is pretty soft, allows big body roll and can be easily punctured.

Hope it works, because I need those PMs. Thanks. Yep, they came back!