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  1. If there is anything I can help you with there, let me know
  2. The Top Nuts are always the hardest to crack.......
  3. Excellent to hear ! Glad it is fully functional and fully fun still !
  4. The panel behind the driver seat will need to be removed to check these fuses if you are wanting to take a look, always good to eliminate possible issues before letting the dealers hand you a bill for doing the very same thing you can do yourself. there are several areas that can cause this issue also, but take a look at the fuse block first, there is a good chance your system needs topped up though.
  5. Just curious what you mean by a slow shift; is there excessive slippage in the clutch? Or is it the time between shifts up and or down? is it equally consistent regardless of speed/rpm etc? Also, assuming you are hearing the pump running when you open the door and it also sounds familiar enough and not shorter or muffled in any way
  6. Jan. If you want to pm or email me your mailing address I will send you a container of the material I use for this issue
  7. I will look into that for you tomorrow Stimpy, there are a few issues that will cause this but I will narrow them down best I can and make you a list
  8. Sorry late to the game again, I tried to find the info I had but what I knew and what can be done are different things. i found one of my TB still apart and other than measuring them dissassembled, it would not be possible with an intact unit.one thought I had was to exchange one TB to its mate and see if the problem persists The black end plates are the variable resistors that wear out, they have opposite resistance based on position which is part of a redundancy or a differential feedback to verify the correct position to the computer, if one does not match the opposite resistance then a fault is registered. The same goes for the foot throttle potentiometer.
  9. It isn’t uncommon for the wiper in the TB to get worn spots on it or crack even that results in intermittent issues, They can be sent out for repair, I have repaired my own and it is no handyman type task to open a TB. i still need to load a few images on another thread but I will look to see the pins to test externally for an impedance test, it may be worth looking into
  10. Very common problem for sure, I will have to find my pictures or I will make some new ones to demonstrate how I clean and refurbish switches I come across the buttons are a base white plastic with an automotive black paint, it is then laser etched with and icon to reveal whatever the switch is designed for be it window or door locks etc that is then clear coated to protect the surface from scratches as obviously it would leave white lines exposed when illuminated, it is this clear coat that degrades over time... interestingly from finger oils etc.... I use a different type of clear coat that is stabilized and I also add a light wax afterwards. its a busy week coming up but I will see if I can post more to show the process
  11. I think the angle of the photo which at the rear is showing the upper passenger side engine bonnet profile is adding rear estate making the back end look thicker, also the oversized rims and larger rear tyre profile makes the car seem compressed. Not saying any of it looks bad or wrong, just that the image has illusions built in. But..... i am also curious about the white paint marks under the centres of each wheel... or so they seem to be, coincidence? Or is there an actual reason? ( because I need to just add to the mystery.....is why)
  12. The black Matt starts along the raised body line after the black sail panel
  13. That is where the secondary pump, the regulator and water lines to the hvac heater core run through, and on the engine side fire wall the overflow tank. i would chance a guess on a clamp if your heater has been functioning okay, otherwise I would maybe think it was a slight leak in the regulator or secondary pump after the engine is off, any back pressure will drip from offending area, specially if the regulator is closed or near closed a few panels may need removing to source the issue directly either way And as Stimpy suggested, I would second for sure, just my thoughs
  14. It’s in the rear of the car, I believe the right rear, usually a dual coloured plastic valve. Inline with a “T” fitting that also leads directly to the blue accumulator, It prevents the accumulator from bleeding vacuum back into the engine leaving it specifically for the master assist. Also look at the seal around the blue bottle as it can dry out and have a loose fit and as a note, one may suppose a leak there would produce a vacuum error, but the valve stops the engine from having any notice or affect
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