Digibeam

The fuses weaken over time from the inrush of operation, they bridge a lot of amperage every time the climate demands which can be every few minutes in some cases. i would not advise anything higher to try to prevent having to change it out, that will create an issue that isn’t quite as cheap as a fuse and will take way more time to repair

If there is anything I can help you with there, let me know

The Top Nuts are always the hardest to crack.......

Excellent to hear ! Glad it is fully functional and fully fun still !

The panel behind the driver seat will need to be removed to check these fuses if you are wanting to take a look, always good to eliminate possible issues before letting the dealers hand you a bill for doing the very same thing you can do yourself. there are several areas that can cause this issue also, but take a look at the fuse block first, there is a good chance your system needs topped up though.

Just curious what you mean by a slow shift; is there excessive slippage in the clutch? Or is it the time between shifts up and or down? is it equally consistent regardless of speed/rpm etc? Also, assuming you are hearing the pump running when you open the door and it also sounds familiar enough and not shorter or muffled in any way

Jan. If you want to pm or email me your mailing address I will send you a container of the material I use for this issue

I will look into that for you tomorrow Stimpy, there are a few issues that will cause this but I will narrow them down best I can and make you a list

Sorry late to the game again, I tried to find the info I had but what I knew and what can be done are different things. i found one of my TB still apart and other than measuring them dissassembled, it would not be possible with an intact unit.one thought I had was to exchange one TB to its mate and see if the problem persists The black end plates are the variable resistors that wear out, they have opposite resistance based on position which is part of a redundancy or a differential feedback to verify the correct position to the computer, if one does not match the opposite resistance then a fault is registered. The same goes for the foot throttle potentiometer.

It isn’t uncommon for the wiper in the TB to get worn spots on it or crack even that results in intermittent issues, They can be sent out for repair, I have repaired my own and it is no handyman type task to open a TB. i still need to load a few images on another thread but I will look to see the pins to test externally for an impedance test, it may be worth looking into

Very common problem for sure, I will have to find my pictures or I will make some new ones to demonstrate how I clean and refurbish switches I come across the buttons are a base white plastic with an automotive black paint, it is then laser etched with and icon to reveal whatever the switch is designed for be it window or door locks etc that is then clear coated to protect the surface from scratches as obviously it would leave white lines exposed when illuminated, it is this clear coat that degrades over time... interestingly from finger oils etc.... I use a different type of clear coat that is stabilized and I also add a light wax afterwards. its a busy week coming up but I will see if I can post more to show the process

I think the angle of the photo which at the rear is showing the upper passenger side engine bonnet profile is adding rear estate making the back end look thicker, also the oversized rims and larger rear tyre profile makes the car seem compressed. Not saying any of it looks bad or wrong, just that the image has illusions built in. But..... i am also curious about the white paint marks under the centres of each wheel... or so they seem to be, coincidence? Or is there an actual reason? ( because I need to just add to the mystery.....is why)

The black Matt starts along the raised body line after the black sail panel

That is where the secondary pump, the regulator and water lines to the hvac heater core run through, and on the engine side fire wall the overflow tank. i would chance a guess on a clamp if your heater has been functioning okay, otherwise I would maybe think it was a slight leak in the regulator or secondary pump after the engine is off, any back pressure will drip from offending area, specially if the regulator is closed or near closed a few panels may need removing to source the issue directly either way And as Stimpy suggested, I would second for sure, just my thoughs

That’s totally Awesome....

It’s in the rear of the car, I believe the right rear, usually a dual coloured plastic valve. Inline with a “T” fitting that also leads directly to the blue accumulator, It prevents the accumulator from bleeding vacuum back into the engine leaving it specifically for the master assist. Also look at the seal around the blue bottle as it can dry out and have a loose fit and as a note, one may suppose a leak there would produce a vacuum error, but the valve stops the engine from having any notice or affect

The ABS system is fairly self contained in the main unit below the brake master, it connects to the sensors at each wheel as well it has a connection to the CAN line for dash information as well as a few other things (TCS etc) you can technically unplug the central harness from the ABS head and deactivate it, you will throw codes and alarms and such but nothing detrimental, if you just want to see what it’s like with out the anti lock system functioning. my first thoughts would be your fluid but you say it’s new, then my thoughts would point to the one way valve before the accumulator (blue tribulb plastic) in the rear if it’s leaking then you wouldn’t be getting the same response as you would with full vacuum The new calipers may be too effective while the original rears act accordingly, this would cause a drag on the fronts but not the rears causing premature response from the ABS system. there has been lengthy debates on the brake system which in the end was certified as a safe and reliable system at the time of manufacture, if you have changed parts of the mechanics of the oem brake system, then to expect it to perform normally would be questionable, as I will assume you now have 6 piston calipers and far more fluid required to motivate them from a master that was designed for smaller calipers and a control unit looking for a response from the original components. it’s possible if you adjust your pedal height it may also create a response favourable or otherwise, by reducing or increasing pressure, testing on a closed circuit of course. just my thoughts there, I will see if I can find anything else that may be of actual use to you

I just removed clear from an 04 front bumper with original paint And like putting wrap on a car, I used a triggered torch to heat the area and slowly remove the bra, it took the better of an hour and the only issue was some remaining adhesive that comes off easily. It had been in place for almost a decade also. There was no discolouration, it had to be removed because I am repainting the entire body just be slow and careful, it comes off in sections so don’t expect huge pieces, also don’t over heat or you will melt it,

You should be all good like was mentioned, I have done it several times, sometimes the light flashes other times it didn’t but when everything was back together, no issues

Out of curiousity, How are you discharging and storing the AC refrigerant oil? plus on the power steering be careful of stored pressure in the accumulator tank for the front lift system, if you choose to remove hoses etc. i have not removed a compressor for replacement personally sorry no help there

The high beam is created by an actuator on the main lamp assembly that is also the low beam when not active, it is a controlled flag that’s dropped into and out of the beam blocking or allowing the high beam to radiate the variable between its position in relation to high and low as a unit, is fixed and cannot be altered, the focus or direction the beam is pointed to on the other hand can be adjusted through the forward panel in the wheel well as pointed out by Stimpy, and is a fairly simple task, but should not be done without the headlamp alignment specs for the very reason I mentioned previously, but it’s your car, you are free to do as you please with it, just be thoughtful of opposing drivers at night.

That’s all I had sorry, I have still been looking though

The projectors can be aimed for the correct orientation though you should have it done at a shop with the correct beam alignment tool as adjusting your own headlamps is actually a no no in the eyes of the DOT and people tend to favour thier own viewpoint of illumination than the drivers receiving it in the on coming lane usually blinding them in the process with maladjusted headlamps.....

i am going to assume you would include the outer rear collectors along with the side skirts the skirts can be changed but the rear quarter on the early Murci would require significant body work for both the relocation of the oil cooler DS and alternator cooler PS , along with the lower rear quarters needing to be filled and lengthened to match the LP style collectors I feel it is a worthy upgrade as they do have a well defined curve all the way to the front and the collectors look awesome as well i have dealt with the offshore “ carbon fibre” version (so fancy) collector covers that are grossly oversized and after cutting most of the original Murci collectors away, they fit over top this eliminates the need to relocate the oil cooler assembly but even on a good day it’s a sad looking affair they are so visually incorrect. sorry got into a tangent there.... but the short answer now would be yes it can be done as I have done it on a roadster

Really? GTautospares in Australia has a roadster chassis on eBay a little surprised it was missed