Aaron94T

When I go to shows or C&C's I rarely stay with my cars as I am interested in talking to other owners etc. The only time this is not a great idea is a public shows where most of the spectators are not car owners. One family walked up to my Murci and the small boy proceeded to step on my side sill so he could get a better look into the car. I was literally stunned! Back when I use to bring my Viper to shows in the early 2000's I had a man walk up to my car and open the door so his son could have a seat. I asked him what he was doing and he gave me an odd look and closed the door. I really believe the general public thinks cars at a show are like cars in a dealership. They do not understand that they are not public property.

I'm in.

I have run R-Compounds on the rear of my Viper for over 10 years. They stick like glue! I have 650wheel tq that holds 100% in first when warm. However, mine are getting old now and it is time to replace them. The Viper's drive train is so strong I would not think twice about running stickier tires. Spinning in 1st and 2nd will be a thing of the past.

It looks like they put the radiator in front. I guess they didn't trust the cooling system or had an issue with it that forced them to change.

+1, that 640 rear bumper has to go. EDIT: Just checked out the guys build thread. He has serious talent and will be doing the full 670 conversion in time.

Wheels are a huge improvement and I bet it rides 2X better too! I like a light tint on the tails as the fruit stripe gum tail lights look a bit dated on an otherwise timeless design. The 640 tail lights are the only improvement aesthetically over a Murci, IMHO.

The tail lights and the asymmetrical rocker vents are the best part of the 640 IMO. This car does not have those which is sort of a miss. Great looking car overall and the interior is great.

The wing should have attached from the rear like the 670. Missed an obvious opportunity their to turn it up a notch.

Being a huge Top Gear fan and having seen every episode with the three amigos this is bad news. Here is a bit more detail. http://transmission.blogs.topgear.com/2015...nt-on-clarkson/ http://www.bbc.com/news/entertainment-arts-32052736 The key point from Tony Hall IMO was: "There cannot be one rule for one and one rule for another dictated by either rank, or public relations and commercial considerations." His hands were tied from that perspective.

I helped remove a leaky rad from my friends Murci this past summer. Have you pulled off the wheel liners and looked for where the leak is coming from or do you just see coolant on the ground? When you pull the rear wheel liners out it give you access to see the entire radiator on that side. His leak was from the super cheap plastic petcock valve. $40 part from Lambo and he was back on the road.

I got a ride in a friends SRT who took full advantage of the deep discounts offered a few months back. The interior is so much better than the previous generations from a materials and visual perspective. The one thing I would say is the interior dimensions seam very similar to my GTS which makes sense due to the similar shape. For those that have never owned a GTS, the interior is cozy for two larger dudes and that holds true for the 2013+ as well. From a power perspective it is very quick. No complaints about the get up and go and if I owned one I would just do headers, intake and a tune. +1 on wanting a "new" toy car that does not require wrenches. I am not ready to part with my GTS, but if I were I would definitely get a Gen V.

I just hit the ball joint with some WD which eliminated the squeak and it has not returned. However, removal and re-greasing is a better way to go.

Thanks for sharing the weight! I have wondered what the weight would be as the dry weight is suppose to be 3650. I was assuming 3850 was the all in weight but I guess not. If I am pushing 4000 lbs with stock 4wd and exhaust that is a bit crazy.

That sound is amazing! So your setup is custom headers that remove the primaries, test pipes and a mufflerless exhaust? I have heard Murci's without primaries before and they are seriously loud from inside, is the drone livable? Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing.

My low side valve was so close to the frame rail I had to remove the tire to get the fitting over it with much effort. The high side valve was easy as I just reached back through the engine bay and connected it. My mesh exhaust cover is off the car so I had a clear shot to that fitting. I think the hand build nature of these cars means the fittings can be oriented in different directions on different cars.

Service manual actually says 680g which is exactly two of the small containers. The problem is they are not that accurate in weight and some always stays in the can. I put in around 700g or 25oz and the AC got cold. Haven't driven it but idled for 25 minutes and it seamed as good as new.

Any tips on recharging? The low pressure valve is very close to the frame rail and it looks like I will need to pull the wheel off and see if any zip ties are holding it in place. If not it will be hard to get the connector onto the nipple.

It took us a few hours but Flash and I pulled it down through the wheel well area. The key when reinstalling is to keep all structural bolts loose until you have the radiator, ductwork and shroud all in place. The hand built nature of the tolerances comes into play here.

Ready for my owners status.

Here is an important tip for everyone. If Hovik emails you saying you should shown up to an event, this is what you could miss if you don't. I now can't remember what was so important that Sunday that I couldn't make it down for this. Hats off for what looked like a solid showing of both cars and entertainment.

That's it? Not a huge bump and def not enough to scratch a big power itch.

Those are guaranteed to loose power over some upgraded filters in the stock boxes. Not sure why you want to pull in super hot air.

The price on that car was just lowered to 130, which is low for the current crop of cars. There are no comps in that range that are not suspect. I am not surprised he turned down low 120's.

Since we are talking Batwing repair, I thought there were bushings that wear out and cause the looseness / flapping. Where would they be in that picture as it looks like only bolts and washers are depicted?